Saturday 20 August 2022

Earlier in the year I was engaged in a conversation with a work colleague, telling her I was not into creating fashion, I was into making clothes. I wouldn't even know what is actually in fashion.

Rei Kawakubo once said a similar thing

The same sentiment is echoed in another RK quote..."I am a clothes maker, and that's all I am. I only want to talk about the making of clothes. I don't feel the need to go out there and explain that."

I would like to be able to date the above quotes, as the whole thing about design and making is that it develops, and so it does with RK.

For the CdG Spring 2014 collection, Rei Kawakubo said she wanted to make something that hadn't existed before and the only way she could do this was by setting out not to make clothes. What the collection delivered was a series of objects that might be worn on the body. Kawakubo was wanting to reformulate what "fashion" is to the designer.
The collection was known as 'Not Making Clothes'

In an interview with Rei Kawakubo for The Fashion Autumn/Winter 2018, Jess Cartner-Morley asked,
 -What does it mean, not making clothes?-
The reply, via Adrian Joffe's translation -...what she would really like would be to get a new brain each season. But she can't. So, she has to find a new method to come at the work...maybe if I don't make clothes, I will be able to make something new.-



The above 3 garments featured in comic strip style, but I can't remember the magazine I got them from.



A link to The Cutting Class indicates many of the cool design details on the collection garments

The teddy bear object dress is such a party dress!
Mia Wasikowska modelled it for AnOther magazine
It also came out as a skirt


But, the one I loved was the handbag form.

Loved it so much, I made my own one.

I think RK might quite like teddy bears.
In the early 2010s a CDG Shirt, with a very clear image of a bear.

The 2014 CdG Shirt collection's campaign image,

although the applied decoration on the shirt is more puppy dog, don't you think.

Now, the CdG Shirt 2019 Fall collection 'No Theme' theme, did feature something, bear like, but really, I wonder, perhaps, could still be dogs, or wolves! Whatever, still very cool in a shirt!

The CdG Spring 2021 'Dissonance' collection featured dresses printed with Bearbrick Teddy Bears
What is a Bearbrick Bear you may ask...
A Bearbrick Bear is a vinyl toy created by Tatsuhiko Akashi, who founded the Japanese company Medicom Toy in 1996. It is a very valuable collectors item.

This would be a more everyday wearable outfit from the Dissonance collection 


Mitsuko Watanabe interviewed Rei Kawakubo during May 2021, about the time of the Dissonance collection. Quite interesting to read some of her comments re the clothes within the collection. (Remember, this was Covid-19 Pandemic lockdown time)

There were also many designers who chose to create videos in order to express their world.

Yes, and that’s one way to do it too. But that’s a completely different form of creation to making clothes. There are multi-skilled people who can use sound or draw as a means of expression, not just through making clothes, but I only have clothes, so that’s what I do. I therefore can’t, or won’t, create videos to showcase my clothes.

It is hard to capture details through digital media, and I feel like I’m only using a limited part of my senses to perceive them.

I am very concerned that the shows, watched by only 50 to 60 people in real life, are turned into videos and delivered to the world—but there’s not much I can do about that.

You can’t even have exhibitions in Paris.

There’s no opportunity for people outside of Japan to look at this season’s clothes.

I take it this is the first time you’ve encountered a situation like this, since you began creating clothes.

That’s right. That’s why I only show the clothes. I have not been creating in a way where you move people with your videos. I assume the other designers who also use videos to express appeal more to journalists. Comme des Garçons works well for those who can see our clothes in the flesh, but won’t have much impact on people outside of Japan, I just have to accept that.

Even in that situation, you have to keep your business going.

That’s an impossible task.

Impossible?

Even if we make clothes, there’s nobody to buy them. They can’t go out to shop, and they don’t have anywhere to wear them. We say, “We’ll carry on making” and “Once we stop, that’s it,” but since there are no opportunities for customers to wear our clothes, everything is looking hopeless at the moment.

But you have no way forward other than to carry on making?

That’s right, but we don’t know if it really is a way forward. We must prepare ourselves so we can act right away when normality resumes, by continuing to work at the same pace. That’s partly why we kept to the same schedule. But it is depressing. I’m not sure if we can work with vigour. We’ll have to push ourselves.”

Thom Browne's Fall 2022 collection definitely delivered a thing for teddy bears. Browne presented the collection as a Ted Talk led by Rocky Harwell dressed as a Thom Browne teddy bear. And all the little teddies were dressed in Thom Browne suits. Very cute! 


Last word on Teddy Bears...
this is Teddy Boy, he is extra cool in his wee denim jacket keeping order in our living room.

Back to the making of clothes, or not in RK's case.
Here is an interesting link to an article about the various creatives who were involved in  the collection 'Not Making Clothes'. (I hope the connection does work for you)

Kawakubo maintained the concept of 'Not Making Clothes' for the next 7 collections, culminating in the A/W 2017/18 'The Future of Silhouette' 

I always loved this one.
Now, I know it is not an everyday type garment, but Rei Kawakubo, being the clever designer business woman that she is, produced it in a different form, which still connects.

It's inspired me to work in a similar vein with some fabrics I have. My fabric is a very light linen type fabric, so I cut a loose kimono block and made a cool jacket to wear in the summer twilight, over jeans and a t-shirt, when I am at that poolside barbeque!
As I was telling someone, the only thing this garment cost me is power and labour, and that labour is a labour of love!

Sad to read yesterday of the passing of clothing design genius Issey Miyake 
Issey Miyake also saw himself as a maker of clothes. He did not like the label 'fashion designer'. 
He told the Japanese paper, The Yomiuri Shimbum in 2015, "What I wanted to make wasn't clothes that were only for people with money. It was the things like jeans and t-shirts, things that were familiar to lots of people, easy to wash and easy to use." (RIP wonderful designer, Issey Miyake.)

I think at this point I will share my story boards. I have included them in a previous blog, way back at the beginning, something like blog number 6, and now I am blog number 65!
I produced these as a visual explanation of where I came from concerning my clothes making/design process and passion. A creative trip into my past!

First off, my Mum was the instigator.  She was a great sewer and helped deliver my ideas and desires, which was so supportive of her.  I love the dresses she made for my sister and me. Both the same fabric, same colour, but we have different shaped collars, nice touch regard sister individuality . 

 

Now, I'm doing more of it myself. My Mum gave me her old Singer sewing machine.  I've discovered cool patterns and fabric shops. I came across interesting designers through the pattern companies.  Kenzo, Betsey Johnson & Willi Smith to name a few.  Oxford bags, I loved them, made them out of calico for God's sake!  Can you see the beginnings of my love of the Japanese designers?   By then, I'd traded in the Singer for a Bernina!

Now, I am right into the Japanese designers...Issey Miyake was first.  I loved his work, his folds, his assymmetry, his pleats, his creating space within the garment.  He was a very skilled designer. I loved Vogue Patterns for taking him on as one of their designer patterns.  I think I purchased just about every one of them, until he let go of the reins. And those patterns I didn't manage to buy I tried to make myself...nothing's changed!

And now, all sorts of interesting designers and artists are exciting me.  I love sculptural shapes, particularly those designed by CdG....it really started with her wonderful skirt collection of S/S 2003, but I was excited by her work before that.  I have such admiration for the pattern makers who work for CdG.  They are very skilled, as they interpret her highly conceptual ideas, which enables the, sometimes obscure, concept to be delivered as a garment.   Martin Margiela, Maria Blaisse, Cosmic Wonder, Caroline Broadhead are also stimulating..... and I'm still into Bernina sewing machines.


I am a great believer and proponent of 'making' being beneficial for the mind, body and soul. This article expresses the same sentiment https://theconversation.com/how-craft-is-good-for-our-health-98755 

On my website I write "All the resources I work with, needle, sewing machine, cloth, thread, paper, pencil, set-square, plus what I do with them, I call 'my craft'. Working with my craft is the main way I express myself in life. I draw and write with needle, thread and fabric. It takes time, precision and endurance.  I am a 21st Century Needlewoman!"

In a previous blog, https://solovetosewliketheboys.blogspot.com/2019/08/?m=0 I wrote about my 'soft crown of thorns' piece, 


"Why have I created this? Firstly, because I had the fabric and I have an intensive drive to turn fabric into something." 
This is so me. Making fabric into something. Always making fabric into something!


We had a small competition during lockdown last year, 'Express what it means to you to be Marist'. This was my entry

A Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing work

“Watch out for false prophets; they come to you looking like sheep on the outside, but they are really like wild wolves on the inside. You will know them by the way they act. Thorn bushes do not bear grapes, and briars do not bear figs. A healthy tree bears good fruit, while a poor tree bears bad fruit. A healthy tree cannot bear bad fruit, and a poor tree cannot bear good fruit. Any tree that does not bear good fruit is cut down and thrown in the fire. So, then, you will know the false prophets by the way they act.” Matthew 7:15 -20 (Good News For Modern Man, School Edition)

My work reflects Marist College and how it has enabled my passion to thrive.

 I love fabric. I love working with fabric. I can’t resist making “things” out of fabric. I express myself through fabric.

One of my core values is “Live life to express, not to impress.”

I work to be true to myself and to others, which many a Marist woman also emulates. (I didn't get the first prize.)

Check out this article, it might resonate with you   https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2022/feb/26/sewing-and-making-clothes-can-inspire-heal-or-bind-us-to-the-past   A sentence at the end certainly resonates with me. "Sewing something for yourself implies belief in a future self."

I sure try to instill this philosophy at school, maybe not exactly in those words, but I try to encourage 'making' and what a creative sense of wellbeing and achievement it can give you. 

I like what is being offered in the site 'Beginner Friendly Clothes to Sew'. A lovely brown gingham tiered skirt, https://www.roseryapparel.com/videos/beginner-friendly-clothes  Janelle is the maker behind Rosery Apparel. A delightful gingham skirt, and great instructions, which will be just ideal for my Yr. 9 class. Offers really good cross-curricular Maths, as you have to work out twice your waist, 3 x your waist and 4 x your waist! But before that you have to know where your waist is, which should not be taken for granted!


One of my Yr.9s made this gingham skirt for her Semester 1 Fab. Tech.project. She worked very hard, lining the fabric as it was a lightweight gingham, and didn't she do well.

Also some great work from a Yr.11 student, last year during long lockdown period. Her last achievement standard for the year, very much one of "making", and the various skills involved in that. Making a pattern, making a toile, making the actual garment. Good skills all round.





In March 2020, Covid-19 pandemic lockdown time, the Guardian presented this article 'DIY Fashion designer's tips on what to make from home.
There are some really great projects, and I do rather like 'Sharkey', and think he could be pretty cool made in recycled/recut/renewed denim jeans.
The challenge is, now we are coming out of the pandemic, and lockdowns look to be a thing of the past, will people still maintain the buzz of making from home? I get the feeling many just want to get out of the house and go somewhere else!

I am also rather taken with this site https://thestylesafari.com/5-fashion-design-projects-for-2019/ It's the concept of  wanting to make 12 projects in 2019, one a month I guess. The thinking behind the project is interesting and creative, plus I do so connect with '#HandmadeWardrobe'! (Like, check my side-bar image "my Whakatauki is "As you sew, so you will acquire.") and I like her idea re 'Pants with a Twist...it made me think of the ones I made a few years back...they're pants and they have a twist to them.



Now 'egg' is an interesting concept of making.

It's a label I have only just come across, although it has been around since 1994. egg makes and sells timeless pieces, clothes and objects. Supporting makers is a major aspect of the company's manifesto.
Maureen Doherty, the woman behind the label, has a connection with Issey Miyake. She worked on various projects with Miyake, from ballet costumes, store openings and Issey perfume to name a few. It was Doherty who introduced Miyake to potter Lucie Rie. 
Read more about the egg ethos and view their cool collections via this link. Apparently not one of their designed garments is opened/closed with a zip.  https://www.eggtrading.com/collections/new-deliveries-of-white-oxford

I have a great project going on with my Yr.10 class, JOIN, an initiative of Anouk Beckers. The idea is everyone in the group is a maker.


Here are the girls, involved in the project, planning, designing, drawing, making decisions, so good....







If you are interested in this wonderful JOIN initiative, here's a link,   https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/partnership-content-d/2022/4/10/join-collective-clothes


Once again, the wonderful V&A, this time their Make and Do. There is so much to inspire, but do take in Stitch & sew, Sew your own customisable shirt. It relates to the current V&A exhibition, Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear, and looks like a really fab shirt to make.

Finally, make design your life, well my life anyway. Note, I did write Fashion Design, should be Clothing Design (!), but I like the visual idea of all the inputs and throughputs, which give out the ideas, inspiration and excitement that keep me curious and creative.

SLTSLTBsigning off.

P.S. I have been updating one of my website pages, the one that connects to my blog. I have posted on it  images of some of my 'sltsltb makes'. 

https://sites.google.com/site/wwwsewroundcom/home/my-blog?authuser=0