What does this image evoke in you?
The fine print reads "Mouse of a different order. Everything from the meaning of mouse to the meaning of wealth has been transformed by technology. Cyberculture is affecting how we communicate, what we wear, and even the status symbols we aspire to."(American Vogue)
When you hear/see this word, what do you think?
One definition is, Science of knowledge put into practical use to solve problems or invent useful tools.
and the word 'Cyberculture', goes something like...The social conditions brought about by the widespread use of computer networks for communication, entertainment and business.
Both of these words totally cover where we are at 21st Century, 2018.
Brave New World?
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| Cybercouture-high tech design from Josephus Thimister's plastic & gauze dress |
The technological advances of the Industrial Revolution enabled the invention of the sewing machine, which helped to democratise fashion, as home dressmakers were able to adapt and copy the latest designs. (I connect with that, but those that can are getting less and less, I'm sad to say.)
This is a link to a great video about the history of the sewing machine, admittedly you might have to have a passionate interest in the subject to start with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMd4MCKGHBE
Technology has always played a key role in Comme des Garcons progressive approach to clothing. Rei Kawakubo works alongside specialist technicians and fabric laboratories. Looking to technology to find new materials to work with helped CdG establish innovative design possibilities. Like the wonderful crushed up paper bag skirts from the 1997 S/S 'Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body' collection.
I have always loved these skirts, it's that thing about paper being made so wearable. Technology enables that to be achieved successfully, plus innovation & imagination. First the thought, then the practical technology that can put the concept into action.
The above skirts appeared in CdG's S/S 1997 collection.
And 20 years later, in the CdG F/W 2017 'The Future of Silhouette' collection, this garment appeared. That fabulous wearable paper at work again!
Japanese designers are great at pushing this boundary, because during its post-war revival, Japan revamped its industrial bases and became a world leader in the technological development of textiles.
The result of this industry enabled creative textile designers to develop new fibres, new weaving techniques and new methods of dyeing, which helped many clothing designers to produce exciting collections.
One such amazing textile designer was Jun'ichi Arai (1932-2017), a textile designer who had the heart and spirit of a poet.
Jun'ichi Arai created fabrics that had never been seen before. In 1995 he worked on developing the first metallic fibre in the world. Coming from a family of spinners and weavers, Jun'ichi Arai was able to develop that wonderful ability to break rules and snub convention. He flourished in pushing the limits of new and traditional technology. Such talent enabled Jun'ichi Arai to meet the challenge of Rei Kawakubo's conceptual imagination. He could manipulate a fibre's inherent properties with a computer-assisted jacquard loom, extending its potential, yet tradition was always underlying his newest textile technologies. Jun'ichi Arai was skilled in creating fabric which puckered, crumpled, puffed, pleated and protruded.
A number of years ago I attended a fabulous textile symposium, 'Through The Surface', and Jun'ichi Arai was a guest speaker. He was such a wonderful human being, gentle, kind and so happy to sign his autograph in my catalogue. I just loved him. I have read that he once wrote 'What I want to make is not "bread" (profit) but "roses" (contentment).
The work that came out of NUNO (kind of translated as "functional fabric") revolutionised how people think about fabrics.
Their website speaks for itself, regard their technological approach to fabric.
https://www.nuno.com/en/
These two pages from a scrapbook of mine show examples of Japanese textiles, described as"straddling its handcrafted past and post-industrial present."
The yellow "bobbly" one, above left, inspired my manipulated scarf.
It's all about the thermoplastic property inherent in synthetic fibres, which enables them to be heat set into a particular shape. This feature can also be seen in some of the tops that are worn with the CdG paper skirts.
Want to have a go at creating a fabric inspired by this idea? The link below will take you to a Reiko Sudo workshop someone attended, which covered this very cool technique.
http://portfolios.collegeforcreativestudies.edu/gallery/50984537/RUST-DYEING-WORKSHOP-REIKO-SUDO
I am also interested in Reiko Sudo's workshop on scarf making...
https://reikosudoworkshopsg.peatix.com/
...it reminds me of these cool CdG scarves.....
...and I came across the site of someone who attended one of the workshops. Great information is posted. It's a wonderful way to use up scraps. Excellent sustainability feature from Nuno. Technology also taking responsibility.
http://bjadamsmallwork.blogspot.com/2017/11/scraps-patchwork-workshop.html
A number of years ago now, a student of mine took on a 'Techno-Man' project. The brief was "You have been presented with the fashion trend forecasts for next year. You are required to design a range of casual garments based on the theme of 'Techno-Man' to be sold in a popular teenager store. Make up a garment and/or an accessory to accompany your outfit"
...and the final design. She went the manipulated synthetic fabric way, steaming her own material to create the look she was after. Fab work Vanessa, I wonder what you are up to these days?
The Victoria and Albert Museum is showing an exhibition at the moment
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-future-of-fashion
Paper clothing, especially dresses, makes me think of the 60s, when many designers connected fashion with technology. Designers like Pierre Cardin, Andre Courrege and Paco Rabanne were especially inspired by the space race. It's so obvious in this image, rather "trekie" don't you think, especially the orange dress.
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| Pierre Cardin 'Space' Collection 1967 |
In 1968 Paco Rabanne showed an outfit that was moulded, as opposed to the tradition stitched and seamed. In that same year Pierre Cardin produced his 'Cardines' range These garments were made of concentrated synthetic fibres, which could be heated and moulded into 3D geometric shapes looking very futuristic.
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| Andre Courreges 'Space Age' Collection 1964 |
Experimenting with "moulding as opposed to stitching and seaming" is an Issey Miyake technological approach to textiles.
Miyake's A-POC (a piece of cloth) line is a clothing system whereby a single thread enters a computerised machine and a finished garment emerges at the other end, with the wearer deciding how to cut and wear it. Such fun.
I came across a piece of pretty material the other week. When I saw it I just thought of Issey's A POC dresses. I think it was the colour striping and it cried out to be made into a simple little summer shift dress. My technology involved old time pattern cutting (slicing and splicing so the fabric went together as I wanted) and Bernina sewing machining.
Roll on summer gatherings.
Now, what about Smart Fabrics?
Smart fabrics are electronic textiles(e-textiles), which allow digital components like a battery, a light and electronics to be embedded in them. They can sense when and how they are being touched so can act as sensors, switches, antennae and displays. Smart fabrics react to external stimuli, changing their properties, composition or function. They transform with the application of an electric current, heat, light and pressure. It is said they promise to revolutionise the textile and apparel industry.
A master in this field is Hussein Chalayan. He was right into it in 2007, as both his Spring/Summer & Fall/Winter collections of that year featured astounding garments that went beyond what an everyday piece of clothing could do.
I think, what would my movie be?
For his S/S 2017 collection Chalayan worked with the microprocessor-maker Intel to present wearable technology. Models who were wearing special glasses and belts were able to walk the runway alongside visual projections that showed their stress levels on the wall. (Why would you want to!)
This link will allow you a view of the collection. When the models wearing the technology come out the lights go down and the projections appear. If the wearer is nervous pixelated figures are dancing, the more nervous the wearer, the faster the figures dance. If the wearer is feeling fear, the projected symbol is running feet. Stress is represented by two hands straining to pull a coiled rope in opposite directions. Interesting concepts, but seeing it materialize in everyday attire is another matter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wrI1RnGZv0
My lovely work colleague Rebecca, who teaches Digital Technology, attended a workshop at AUT earlier this year. She came back with these resources and thought they were a bit of me....smart fibres stuff. The time has come to have a go.
I decided the pressure sensor would be the one to try.
I brainstormed a need/opportunity...Rush hour in the underground/metro of a busy 21stC. city. People are everywhere. It's jam packed on the train. A pressure sensor is in the cuff of one's business shirt. If someone makes an attempt to grab your wrist the sensor goes off. You are alert and aware!
I got to work, followed the instructions and...hmm, well it's a start I guess.
I think I have a long way to go before it could ward off an attacker!
I was inspired by this book
Published in 2000, this book charts the exploration of how smart apparel could empower a person on his/her journey in the world. It is divided into 5 distinct areas. The first one, Perform, is my inspiration. Perform - digital suits for professional business people.
It's about travelling light, not clutching that mobile phone. I like the idea of just the touch of the cuff,and it is happening (from someone who seldom clutches her mobile phone anyway!)
Levi's jackets have embraced touch the cuff technology. A cool video demonstrates how it helps 3 young people navigate their way around the city.
And this link discusses the conductive thread and how it is woven into fabric, which is what Levi's require to create their jackets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qObSFfdfe7IHere's another aspect of pertinent future technology, automation. I'm not totally enamoured with automation, as I worry what happens to the humans that the robots replace. I greatly believe in the value that work gives to a human being, but I guess a robot won't complain, when a human being should!
SEWBO Inc have devised a robot to sew a t-shirt. Check it out on their site. It's interesting to observe how human beings overcome problems, and that is basically what technology involves. Seeing a problem and overcoming it, I'm referring to the initial problem with the fabric being limp to work with. But, look at it,is it all being undertaken by the robot? Who/What works the sewing machine?
http://www.sewbo.com/
There is no end of museums/art galleries delivering exhibitions regarding the influence of technology on fashion/clothing industry.
'Shifting Paradigms, Fashion & Technology' (2013/14) was an exhibition that set out to attend to the question 'What is the future of fashion?' It covered various aspects of technology that ware being utilised in the development of future fashion.
Check out the catalog http://shiftingparadigmsksu.com/catalog/shifting_paradigms.pdf
This link is an exhibition at Fashion Institute of Technology, NY. I loved visiting this institution whenever I was visiting that fabulous city.
http://sites.fitnyc.edu/depts/museum/fashion-and-technology/
You'll note the first item is a quote from Hussein Chalayan. If you click on that silver mirror finished dress on the timeline, you see it is a Gareth Pugh slashed creation. Although the slashes look laser cut, Pugh actually produced them the "old-fashioned way - by hand and blade." Me too....check out my SLTSLTB red vinyl top, all hand cut using a OLFA rotary cutter.
Finish with a film 'The Next Black: A film about the Future of Clothing.'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCsGLWrfE4Y
SLTSLTBsigning off.
