Tuesday 5 October 2021

A particular word inspires my theme this time, juxtaposition. 

Like the juxtaposition of these two images?

This is the work of Turkish artist Ugur Gallenkus. 
His images are described as "jarring juxtapositions of prosperity and conflict", as the split images emphasise the differences between war-torn countries and privileged peaceful societies.
To see more of his work, view this link:

Juxtaposition, "The fact of two things being seen or placed close together with contrasting effect."
Like this Come des Garcons Comme des Garcons split image


Comme des Garcons S/S 2005 collection 'Ballerina Motorbikes' utilised this concept.
Rei Kawakubo said, "I thought about the power of the motorbike and the strength of a ballet dancer's arms."

Sarah Mower described the collection as "the startling collision of disparate elements" 
Juxtaposition, stiff leather jackets paired with tulle tutu skirts. Even the colours of the jackets, black, tan, orange seemed a tough contrast with the more fragile pinks and whites of the tutus. 



The head pieces always fascinated me.


This ensemble is delivered in pink gingham, both skirt and jacket. Pink gingham seems so "sweet and girlie". Here it is delivered in something tougher, bulkier, and look no back section.

Demonstrated delightfully in this shoot. A rounder derriere shows it off perfectly!

Me making my connection, my leather jacket, short sleeves, lace/tulle skirt and solid style boots, a bit of juxtaposition. I think I go with the black and black.

I've tried a bit of my own juxtaposition/split image. Check out the extra finger! Gasp, Freak!, as The Simpson's would say.

 Costume National S/S 2010 presented a collection entitled "Tender heart, tough exterior". Maybe a similar reflection as CdG's above, but quite a different delivery.

When I read "Tender heart, tough exterior" I think "Cold hands, warm heart".  
This is a good graphic for that expression
and the synopsis reads like it could be a good read.
"The lives of two teenage girls become literally connected after 14-year-old Amanda unexpectedly dies during a gymnastics meet and Dani receives Amanda's heart. Fourteen-year-old Amanda is a competitive gymnast, sleek-muscled and in perfect health. Fifteen-year-old Dani was born with her heart on the wrong side of her body; she's been in and out of hospital all her life. The two girls don't know each other - and never will. Yet their lives are about to collide. Amanda suffers a haematoma - a blood clot - during a gymnastics competition, and dies. The donation of her heart means renewed life for Dani and several other donor recipients. This is a fascinating and unputdownable story on an important and topical issue. "Cold Hands, Warm Heart" is Jill Wolfson's third book for teenagers. She lives in Santa Cruz, California."

Juxtaposition in literature is used as a device to create deliberate differences for the reader to compare and contrast.
A classic one is

CHAPTER I.
The Period

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us, we were all going direct to Heaven, we were all going direct the other way—in short, the period was so far like the present period, that some of its noisiest authorities insisted on its being received, for good or for evil, in the superlative degree of comparison only.

There were a king with a large jaw and a queen with a plain face, on the throne of England; there were a king with a large jaw and a queen with a fair face, on the throne of France. In both countries it was clearer than crystal to the lords of the State preserves of loaves and fishes, that things in general were settled for ever.



and from Mr Turner's English
and this particular image from a graphic novel, 'Persepolis', by Marjane Satrapi, a memoir of her childhood in Iran during the Islamic Revolution. Split image, effective juxtaposition

What about some contemporary "literature", language used on social media, for example, memes...
Viktor & Rolf worked with memes in their S/S2019 Couture collection, and it was described as "the juxtaposition of seemingly unrelated elements resulting in a typical V&R expression of surreal beauty."
I also read "banality juxtaposed with over-the-top shimmery romantic".


There is something about these that makes me think of this t-shirt, that came attached to a magazine purchase I made,
I just had to screen print this on the other side.

In the art world, Rene Magritte (1898 - 1967), the Belgian surrealist, often displayed a juxtaposition of  objects in an unusual context, giving a new meaning to something ordinary.



Umbrella Water Glass Still Life

In the above work, Magritte is referencing the German philosopher, George Hegel. Apparently Magritte's philosophy of painting had similarities with Hegel's philosophy. By juxtaposing opposite images the mind seeks to resolve the conflict. In this painting the glass catches water while the umbrella repels water.

Recently, I have worked on a fabric wall hanging, which came from a rather child-like painting I did years ago, and do you know, I wonder, originally, was I inspired by Magritte's 'Golconda', and 'Umbrella Water Glass Still Life'?
My fabric hanging tribute to Rene Magritte, in a roundabout way! Wellington Blues.

A contemporary of Magritte's, Meret Oppenheim (1913 -1985) was also into some disordered and diverting juxtaposition, evidenced in her 'Sensational Teacup' piece, the 1936 Fur-covered cup, saucer and spoon.

Modern day artist, Kelly Reemstsen's work of juxtaposing well-dressed women carrying household tools, traditionally considered a male domain.
Interested in her work?
https://www.thisiscolossal.com/2015/11/dress-and-tool-paintings-kelly-reemtsen/

One final connection with the art world, Alyson Khan's work demonstrates a juxtaposition of patterns and blocks of colour, the strangeness of some of the shapes, and allowing it all to exist together. She says "In a lot of my paintings there are large areas of dark, leaving room for uncertainty, contemplation and paradox."
I include this work, as I would like to take compositions like this and create some patchwork quilts. I  like the dimensions plus perspective, it's like some strange shaped building floating in space.
Interested in Khan's work...

To create juxtaposition in photography, photographers use composition, forced perspectives or props to convey the contrasts in an image. This link provides wonderful images demonstrating juxtaposed compositions.

Some of the images reminded me of the time in Book Club, when some of us played with juxtaposition.
Fun!

I love the image with the penguins, takes me to this one

And, the way my brain works, that one takes me to this one. It's titled 'How to detect a wolf in sheep's clothing'

I was given a piece of faux lamb's wool, so I created my version of 'A Wolf in Sheep's Clothing'. A juxtaposed head piece.


Let's go back to Comme des Garcons, this time the Fall 2006 collection 'Persona'. 
Kawakubo worked with some juxtaposing of gender wear. Skirts combining with trousers in the most fabulous way.

Another view, showing one of the garments in full stride!

CdG has often played around with gender in clothing. 
I guess for the general public, it is more "unusual" when seen in menswear, but RK has never shied away from that.
CdG Homme Plus Fall 2021
and the latest Homme Plus, S/S 2022, apparently RK's floral tribute to men.
As Sarah Mower wrote, "She's been hacking and dismantling tailoring for so long that her shapes have become classics.....like the things she does with motorcycle jackets." (Reference to Motorcycles and Ballerinas jackets, maybe?)
Mower also made a comment that Rei Kawakubo has been carrying out  "Non-gendering of clothing and fabrics for a long time." Plus, Ibrahim Kamara did the headpieces (reference to my previous blog).

I believe this approach to menswear clothing is becoming more acceptable in western fashion. (Many other cultures have often dressed "men in skirts".)
Lewis Hamilton wore a Kenneth Nicholson designed suit with a lace 3/4 length skirt, when he attended the 2021 Met Gala.

The latest fashion designer star to come out of CSM, is 24 year old, gender-fluid, Harris Reed.
Half English/Half Mexican-American, Reed asked "How are we still outraged by a man in a dress in 2021?" in reference to his design, "an exact juxtaposition of a suit and a dress", which Harry Styles wore for the December 2020 US Vogue edition.
Styles is very comfortable in gender fluid clothing.
Here he is attired in CdG Homme Plus kilted skirt

Check out this site for images of Reed Harris Graduate Collection. They are astounding, and apparently Reed hadn't used a sewing machine until getting into Central Saint Martins.

One article I read described one of his garments having "trouser legs as wide as sails", and I immediately thought of an overall pattern I have, which has such legs. 
I made it up in a suiting type fabric, delivered some gender fluidity, then played with a computer programme to give it an accessory that echoes Reed's outsized effect.


Cool to see the CdG Homme Plus S/S 2022 had overalls in their collection.

As stated earlier Rei Kawakubo is into juxtaposition. It is obvious in these images from a CdG Furniture catalogue. Yes, she also designs chairs and the like, however comfort factor may not be a top specification.
Compare right and left, all the chairs are juxtaposed with natural, unfinished and broken details.




Juxtaposed images from Ilka Gilvesy's brand book for Comme des Garcons.

I remembered I have this lovely book,
and, it encourages you to have fun juxtaposing the various quarters of twenty-two images of  human figures. As the back cover states, "For anyone who loves art and has a sense of humour."






And, I leave you with my own juxtaposed image.
Two ordinary everyday food products together create a new meaning.

SLTSLTBsigning off!

P.S.
One last beautiful juxtaposition
Veiled Christ, 1753, by Giuseppe Sanmartino and Issey Miyake, Spring/Summer 1998