I love headpieces!
In the CdG 2004 Spring/Summer RTW collection, Rei K. presented a collection simply consisting of skirts, but they weren't simple by any means. They were skirts cut in fabulous circle type shapes. Some people considered they "weren't even really skirts as we know them" 'cos they had exposed ridges of raw seams and no waistband....oh dear, shock horror!
I love this collection. The shirts are so sculptural and the headpieces presented with them, set the skirts off brilliantly.
The flesh coloured chiffon tops presented no distraction against the skirts and the cool headpieces helped to balance the wide skirts on the body.
These headpieces are based on a hat making custom among the Herero women of Southern Africa.
The Herero come from a lifestyle of cattle ranchers. During the 19th century they were subjected to German colonisation, consequently coming under the influence of German missionaries who took exception to their "lack of dress". Eventually the woman were encouraged to completely cover themselves up. They developed a dress that falls to the ankles with long sleeves and a bodice that
comes up to the neck.
They top this dress off with a uniquely shaped headpiece, which is said to pay homage to the horns of their prized cattle.
Check this site and watch a Herero woman preparing her headpiece. It's fascinating, as she does it all by feel, never once looking in a mirror.
I have made one myself. It was quite challenging, but very satisfying to achieve.
Rei Kawakubo invites highly talented people to collaborate on her collection headpieces.
Stephen Jones, the English milliner extraordinaire, being one of them.
His collaboration with CdG began in the 80s
This is a 1985 CdG collection with cool felt beret designed by Stephen. In an interview Stephen Jones carried out with Katharine K. Zarrella, May 2014, he discussed his creative relationship with Rei Kawakubo.
The brief usually consists of something like "black", "animal" or "romantic." Sometimes he doesn't even get that, i.e. "there is no brief." Rei Kawakubo's briefs are never about specifics. She wants the hats/headpieces to be an unexpected element in the collection, to be something that "almost has nothing to do with the collection." It's like randomness is the buzz. If the hats SJ has designed don't work, he is told exactly that! Sometimes, what RK wants does not make sense to SJ, but when he sees it "in situ", it does.
The spring/summer 2006 RTW CdG collection was the first time Stephen Jones worked with Rei Kawakubo for some 20 years, and his creative approach resulted in the most wonderful crowns.
Some reviewers considered this collection as a bit of a homage to Vivienne Westwood, with the obvious Union Jacks and the fabulous tartan. Apparently the accompanying runway music included Coronation marches, C of E hymns and "Land of Hope and Glory." Although RK denied it was about England/Great Britain, she did accept "a Lost Empire." (Cutting without a pattern was RK's main aim, but that is a whole other blog)
In the interview mentioned above, SJ was asked this question, maybe his answer kinda explains why he was asked to do the headwear for this collection, after such a length of time since the previous one.
And this is my take on a crown headpiece, a teddy bear crown. Seven teddy bears glued together, making a crown. A bit of fun...
Another CdG collection collaboration with Stephen Jones was 2006/07 A/W. A fabulous work. It is about "the persona" - what is in front and what is behind. Fascinating concept concerning the complexities of disguises we construct to represent our selves to the world. Comme des Garcons 'Persona' is a study in masculinity and feminity, and Stephen Jones headpieces beautifully depicted that mask of disguise.
When I wrote the word 'Persona' regard CdG's above collection, I immediately remembered Ingmar Bergman's minimalist psychological drama, filmed in 1966.
It is about a catatonic actress, Elisabet, who is being cared for by a young nurse called Alma. It is an intense story concerning anxieties and relationships (Bergman's speciality really) filmed in beautiful black and white. The visual climax is the split screen visage of Alma and Elisabet as they appear to have become one face...the merging of 2 into 1.
Woody Allen was influenced by "Persona" in his film 'Love and Death'. My take on the 2006/07 A/W Collection, however my beret headpiece seems a bit more 'Elephant Man'! |
Stephen Jones also collaborated on the CdG A/W 2007 RTW collection. It is a rather quirky collection. Apparently RK was tired of mundane everyday fashion (she has never been into that!) and wanted something that would take us into another world. Fashion writer Sarah Mower, described it as "something that seemed to start with an exploration of the tender parts of the developing psyche". Minnie Mouse hats and tiny baby frocks sewn to the front of dresses. It was very sweet and playful. I have referred to it in a previous blog.
He also worked on the A/W 2008 collection. I thought this one had a delightfully "trashy" aspect to it, and SJ's head wear was great. RK was quoted as saying, "There's value in bad taste". The collection involved lots of tulle, hairnet veils, lattices of elasticated straps and the hats, fab. faux fur hats. R.K. does not use real fur.
My take on this "bad taste" collection with a pink faux fur hat.
I came across a 'showstudio' designer pattern download for a Stephen Jones hat. It's a great pattern to download and create so you can have your own very cool SJ headpiece to wear.
This is what is involved.....
Print off the A4 sheets to create the outer hat and lining patterns. |
Tape the pieces in the correct order and cut out the fabric. |