I've been considering various themes to pursue and this one is, "Paper dolls".
What am I on about... Paper dolls...well, I love pattern drafting/pattern making/patterns...working that 2 dimensional thing that creates a 3 dimensional thing. Patterns connect with paper. One time, when I was working for a fashion designer, another pattern maker/cutter and I talked about how much we loved paper dolls when we were little girls, so we wondered if that might be a connecting factor between pattern makers......the love of playing with paper dolls when young....hence, paper dolls and paper patterns is where this blog comes from... so, I'm thinking.....
"Paper, Cutting, Pattern"
Let's begin with "Paper"
The most basic paper dolls...paper doll chains......
Weren't they such fun....and if you need/want instructions re paper chain dolls, here is a good site to get you started
It used to be lots of enjoyment cutting rows and rows of these shapes.
Now, something in a similar vein, yet in a different sphere
Issey Miyake's wonderful A-POC creations
This is from Issey's A-POC label, A Piece of Cloth. Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara have rethought the manufacturing process of making clothes. Computer technology programmes enable rolls of fabric to be produced that contain whole clothing ensembles and accessories that just need to be cut out...that's all....just cut out and the garment is ready to be worn. "Cut and wear". The process actually removes the need for a pattern maker(!), because the inputted data into the machines creates marks on fabric, which indicate where the cuts are to be made to create the garment.
The red dresses in the above images come from the 1999 S/S collection. Each dress is a slightly different permutation in a single continuous piece of cloth.
Here's another cool image of a wonderful A-POC dress creation.
The A-POC technique integrates knit and woven processes, and whole seams are sewn together during the construction process. Even jeans can be created.
This is a really cool web site: www.trilliumstudios.com/issey-miyake-a-poc/
It is an interesting explanation of how visual ideas develop to a finished outcome and also refers to the above dress. (I love how Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo have both worked with dancers)
I visited an A-POC exhibition at the Vitra Design Museum in Berlin. It was highly stimulating,
and of course, I purchased the catalogue book. Here's an image from the exhibition....these fabulous beanbags were dotted all round the space which people flopped down in.
This image, from the exhibition catalogue, inspired me to cut a pattern and make one for myself!
I used some fabric I had lying around my workroom, it's not as cool as Issey's, but it's still a fun beanbag. (If you would like to make one, let me know and I'll send you a pattern.)
And, I do have some authentic A-POC creations, purchased in London, couldn't resist... An A-POC apron and 2 table mats. You can see where I had to cut to create the pocket sections
I'm going back to "conjoined" for a moment..
This is a delightful painting showing Issey's red dresses, and in the middle, is an image of a CdG creation from the S/S 2011 RTW collection.
Here are some of the actual creations...
Quite "out there" aren't they.
I created a "conjoined" t-shirt with an appropriate message, for a bit of fun.
This is another image from the A-POC exhibition.
What I like re this image are the tabs that are left at the end of the cutting process, 'cos they make me think of the paper doll wardrobe, which that pattern cutter and I loved playing with when we were young.....in fact I haven't stopped playing with them!
Susan Sontag and, not 100% sure re the male...think it's Larry Flint (only 'cos of the Hustler mag.)
Some interesting collections have been created which relate to a "Paper Doll" theme. One is CdG and another one is Jun Takahashi of Undercover. His AW 2003 RTW collection was definitely inspired by this concept. You'll see it... the garments have the tabs.
Jun Takahashi is a talent who was encouraged by Rei K. She has always been good like that...Junya Wayanabe...Tao Kurihara...she recognizes their talent and fosters their creative development. A relative bit of info I have researched about Jun Takahashi is, he attended Bunka Fashion College and is quoted as saying "I just played around and never studied, except to learn how to cut patterns". Good man, pattern cutting is a great craft to study.
The particular CdG collection that relates to "Paper Dolls" is the A/W 2013 RTW one, which I have mentioned before. It was a fabulous collection, all about 2 dimension, even tho' it's worn on a body and becomes 3 dimension, it till looks 2 d.
"cutout paper-dolliness of looks like the red and pink felted coat-dresses.....The only thing missing was the little paper tabs." (Tim Blanks)
The images I am using to represent the collection came from 'Another Magazine'...I think. I really like the concept they worked with, it's very "Paper Doll".
Rei K. used felt in this collection, to great effect. Obviously, it was a step up from craft felt, because of the weight that was needed. I managed to score some heavy quality maroon coloured felt from Spotlight a couple of months ago, and my idea is to create a top that is inspired from this collection. I like the tops that are like daisy shapes stitched together. We'll see how it goes.
There are lots of adults who still work with Paper Dolls and some of them are very creative. I was given this book to inspire me. It might give you some creative ideas.
And now...."behind every great designer, there is a creative pattern cutter" (Tyrell:2010)
Pattern cutting is a series of measurements that create a 2D shape to fit a 3D body. It's a technical and craft based skill.
Flat pattern cutting is the traditional method and involves creating a block shape, then adapting and manipulating the block to create the desired design shape.
Draping is the other method of pattern cutting. The shape is created on the mannequin, using fabric. I have a Yr 11 student doing a superb job creating her project patterns using this method.
A pattern cutter is the base of every collection, and makes, what can be difficult designs, take shape.
I have said it before, but Rei K. must have fantastic pattern cutters. She acknowledges that her senior pattern cutters play a vital role in the designs of a CdG collection. They have to be able to interpret the conceptual drawing/descriptions R.K is prone to deliver. One skill they must possess is the ability to innovate, which is quite obvious by their results. R.K. expresses her conceptual theme for a collection (sometimes it can just be one word) and the pattern cutters come up with the pattern ideas that express the concept. R.K. has said, "patterns are designs. Designing actually begins with the pattern".
Rei likes her pattern cutters to "break"many of the traditional rules of the craft that are taught in institutions, however they must be grounded in these basic principles, which are then turned on their head. I often tell my students...learn the rules first and then you have a better understanding of how and why you can break them.
Many CdG patterns are not bound by the traditional rules. The patterns may be cut along different grains which help the garment take on a shape all of its own.
This is an interesting Issey Miyake pattern. There's an element of a kimono to it, rectangular for example, and with a few pleats here, some stitching there, a cool halter neck dress is created. I loved working my way through my Issey Miyake patterns. An incredible pattern shape would sew into a wonderful and much loved garment.
I have downloaded a few of them, started with a Yohi Yamamoto cardigan. There is a Martin Margiela dress available and a creation from Gareth Pugh.
Here's my work with the Yohi Yamamoto pattern....you have to realise the pattern is made up of A4 sheets taped together!
And, these 2 pattern pieces sewn together create this....
For those of you into patterns being the inspiration for creative and interesting art work, check this website :www.blockparty.org.uk
It is a wonderful exhibition and the web site is the next best thing to seeing it in person.
Lesley Hurst is a delightful artist who presents her work in the fabulous Textile View magazine. She produced these gorgeous "marquettes" and they really connect with the pattern maker within me. It's the tools of the trade of cutting and construction that really appeal ...the tracing wheel, the sewing thread, the pattern paper, the pin wheel and folding and pleating to create shape. Love it, creative and cool "technological modelling"!
I also love these works by Rosie James, obvious reasons. I love how she presented her work in the pattern envelope style. I haven't yet made any of them. I also like soft sculpture.... Claus Oldenburg at al.....that's another blog subject in itself!!
Here I am, still playing with paper dolls......Breaking Bad paper dolls...terrible photos on my part, but great paper doll idea!
I am probably turning the pages a bit fast when I look back at it...I'll have to improve my technique.
Pattern cutting is a series of measurements that create a 2D shape to fit a 3D body. It's a technical and craft based skill.
Flat pattern cutting is the traditional method and involves creating a block shape, then adapting and manipulating the block to create the desired design shape.
Draping is the other method of pattern cutting. The shape is created on the mannequin, using fabric. I have a Yr 11 student doing a superb job creating her project patterns using this method.
A pattern cutter is the base of every collection, and makes, what can be difficult designs, take shape.
I have said it before, but Rei K. must have fantastic pattern cutters. She acknowledges that her senior pattern cutters play a vital role in the designs of a CdG collection. They have to be able to interpret the conceptual drawing/descriptions R.K is prone to deliver. One skill they must possess is the ability to innovate, which is quite obvious by their results. R.K. expresses her conceptual theme for a collection (sometimes it can just be one word) and the pattern cutters come up with the pattern ideas that express the concept. R.K. has said, "patterns are designs. Designing actually begins with the pattern".
Rei likes her pattern cutters to "break"many of the traditional rules of the craft that are taught in institutions, however they must be grounded in these basic principles, which are then turned on their head. I often tell my students...learn the rules first and then you have a better understanding of how and why you can break them.
Many CdG patterns are not bound by the traditional rules. The patterns may be cut along different grains which help the garment take on a shape all of its own.
 |
| An interesting CdG pattern and garment. |
Here's the pattern I've been working on lately. It's a CdG inspired "pant skirt" style and I had just enough fabric to accommodate the pattern I ended up with. I'm pleased with the low wastage of fabric.
There is a fashion web site, ShowStudio, which provides designer pattern downloads Try this web site for some of the downloads. It takes a bit of work, putting the patterns together, but it's worth it.
Here's my work with the Yohi Yamamoto pattern....you have to realise the pattern is made up of A4 sheets taped together!
For those of you into patterns being the inspiration for creative and interesting art work, check this website :www.blockparty.org.uk
It is a wonderful exhibition and the web site is the next best thing to seeing it in person.
Lesley Hurst is a delightful artist who presents her work in the fabulous Textile View magazine. She produced these gorgeous "marquettes" and they really connect with the pattern maker within me. It's the tools of the trade of cutting and construction that really appeal ...the tracing wheel, the sewing thread, the pattern paper, the pin wheel and folding and pleating to create shape. Love it, creative and cool "technological modelling"!
I also love these works by Rosie James, obvious reasons. I love how she presented her work in the pattern envelope style. I haven't yet made any of them. I also like soft sculpture.... Claus Oldenburg at al.....that's another blog subject in itself!!
And last of all, remember that pattern I was cutting, the CdG inspired pant-skirt... I've been working on it and this is where it is at ......E said, "You're joking!". For heavens sake, it's not finished yet!!
...but I reakon this blog is!
SLTSLTBsigning off.
