This is a fascinating Philip Treacy hat, which features a lovely loopy bow.
(What Philip Treacy was worried about after the creation and wearing of this hat https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-44755082 )
'Bow' is one of those words in the English language, which have a number of different meanings and pronunciations.
In this particular case, it's a knot tied with two loops and two loose ends, used especially for tying shoelaces and decorative ribbons. (Are there any other practical workroom teachers out there, that really wish all students who enter the room, would tie up their shoe laces!)
At the turn of the 20th century, little girls would often wear oversized bows in their hair. Made from satin, silk or starched cotton, these bows beautifully framed the little girl's face, reflecting a look of sweet feminine innocence and formal presentation.
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Bows are something Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garcons is into. She uses them, not just for decoration, but as a means to explore formality, femininity, restriction and anger.
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| CdG Spring Summer 2025 'Uncertain Future' collection |
Kawakubo is often seeking subversion, so bows usually considered sweet and cute, might be large and roughly knotted.
The Spring Summer 2012 'White Drama' collection explored life stages via garments inspired by wedding dresses, christening robes and other life rituals related to birth and death.
Big bows featured as "ties that bind while pulling apart", expressing a powerful symbol of constraint.
The Fall 2013/14 'Infinity of Tailoring' used bows on suits and vests (originally male attire) as a pushing against gender boundaries, which is a popular theme of RK CdG.
The Spring 2022, 'My Present State of Mind' collection was one of giant shapes printed with bows. RK's comment was "the need to let go of the past to achieve a clean slate in the creative process, a renewal of thinking and action"
There was this wonderful bow. It makes me thing of an obi belt tied around a kimono.
The Fall 2024/25 'Anger' collection was one with a dark colour palette and fabulous 'bulging bow-festooned skirts'. RK said it was about her "anger against everything in the world", so bows applied crudely and in an overblown manner may be expressing this raw emotion.
Way back in the CdG Fall 2007/08 'Curiosity' collection, which expressed an ambience of sweetness and innocence, one garment featured bows.
There is something about it that reminds me of Elsa Schiaparelli's jumper
Her playing with the idea of a bow in a woollen jumper is known as a "trompe-l'oeil/ trick of the eye" effect. It is an example of Schiaparelli's combining craft with inventiveness and wit.
Want to have a go at knitting one for yourself....download this pattern and give it a go!
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bowknot-sweaterLike I have said many times before, CdG produce "more everyday wearable" garments that reflect what the collection is expressing, so here are some for bows.
I went looking in my wardrobe and these are the two garments I have, that have anything to do with a bow.
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Jinko Matsumoto's book of Japanese sewing patterns, 'feminine wardrobe' offers a giant bow-tie tunic.
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Another bow, "a weapon for shooting arrows, typically made of a curved piece of wood joined at both ends by a taut string", like the English Longbow.
This powerful weapon was the "AK-47 of its day".
This presents a good history of the English Longbow, especially the video of an actual construction, wonderful craftsmanship at work. https://archeryhistorian.com/english-longbow/
The Battle of Agincourt's 1415 English victory over the French in the Hundred Years War, demonstrated the value of the longbow, which was thrillingly re-created in Laurence Olivier's film.
Made in 1944 when Britain was at war, the film's audience took courage from this story of the king who rises above the odds to emerge victorious. The screenplay retained the essence of Shakespeare's play, even though it was trimmed by over 1500 lines, and some scenes were cut out for propaganda purposes e.g. the political plotting behind Henry's invasion, plus his bloodthirsty nature.
Here is a clip from the film, the going into battle on the horses (it is thrilling as the horses go faster and faster) and the longbow archers waiting for the King's signal to reign down the arrows en-mass on the French!
And of course, I can't go without the story of the 2-fingered salute.
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| Sebastian Horsley, artist and self-styled Soho dandy giving the salute when he was modeling for the CdG Homme Plus Autumn/Winter 2007 collection. |
The legend goes that before the battle, the French King threatened to cut off the index and middle fingers of any captured English archers. After the English victory, the archers waved their 2 fingers at the defeated retreating French in a gesture of defiance, "We've still got them!"
There is no written evidence of this. Apparently the archers required 3 fingers (index, middle and ring) to draw the string effectively, and captured archers would more likely be killed on the spot, not disfigured.
What about this performance with a longbow?!
Marina Abramovic and her then partner, Ulay, in their 1980 'Rest Energy' 4 minute performance piece.
Abramovic described it as one of her most difficult works because she was not in charge. It is an action of both vulnerability and trust. Microphones were hooked onto their hearts, delivering the tempo and intensity of their heartbeats as the work progressed.
Check out this site for more interesting information about the work https://publicdelivery.org/marina-abramovic-rest-energy/
Wear a hand embroidered image on a jumper...
I do not know why 'Comme des Garcons' is printed across the above photo. I know CdG do collaborate with artists in various collections and campaigns, but I cannot find any evidence that this is the case with Abramovic. She does love CdG clothing, and is quoted as saying, "Rei Kawakubo is unbelievable and not caring if you wear her dress or not."
Here's a great shot of Marina wearing a red CdG dress, red the colour of life, blood and passion, very Abramovic. And it's a dress with a bow.
One of the instigators of my theme for this blog is filmmaker Ken Loach,
"I turned down the OBE because it is not a club you want to join when you look at the villains who've got it. It's all the things I think are despicable: patronage, deferring to the monarchy and the name of the British Empire, which is a monument of exploitation and conquest."
Deferring to the monarchy - another meaning of bow - "to bend the knee or body or incline the head, as in reverence, submission, salutation, recognition or acknowledgment to yield; submit to bow to the inevitable."
And look, a poster of my favourite Ken Loach film, the 1969 'Kes', good on you Billy, giving them the 2 finger salute. "Nolite te bastardes carborundorum".
Bowing is a deeply nuanced form of communication in Japanese society. Its various forms embody the harmony, etiquette and humility central to the culture of Japan.
Less formal, acknowledges and respects the other person.
Keirei
Demonstrates respect and professionalism. Suitable in formal business occasions.
Saikeirei
Conveys profound respect and recognition of the other person's superior status. Reserved for highly formal occasions.
This is an excellent site for all you need to know about the correct ways to bow, when in Japan. It probably takes a number of years living within the culture to have it down pat.
Japanese Sumo wrestlers engage in all 3: intricate bows tied at the back of their loincloth costume, engage in a bow twirling ceremony and always bow before and after a performance
British artist and photographer, Ingrid Pollard's 2021 work 'Bow Down and Very Low -123'.
The kinetic sculptural works reflect the body in action and repose, with gestures of bowing and curtseying, referencing a history of power and resurgence.
In this site you can view each work in action https://www.oliversmartstudio.com/bow-down-and-very-low--123.html
Here's an interesting series.
I love reading Olivia Laing's work (maybe not Crudo so much), plus I am in admiration of the filmmaking of Chantel Akerman, because of the way she embraced the desire and passion to be a filmmaker and did it. She lived it.
I hope the link works https://www.frieze.com/article/bow-down-podcast-women-art-history
and this is good, someone discovering just what it is that the artist has to offer us...
Here are 2 interesting links re Agnes Martin, first, one of those great videos made for the 2015 major retrospective of her work held at the Tate Modern. It is always so interesting hearing experts discuss the artist's work; I always learn a lot.
Chantal Akerman, I bow down to your filmmaking.
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I will finish with this draft of a late 2024 work by ex-Washington Post cartoonist Anne Telnaes. She's resigned from the position, because the newspaper's editors refused to publish it.
Jeff Bezos owns the Washington Post, say no more.
sltsltbsigns off
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