Saturday, 19 September 2026

This is an image of the back cover of the first edition of Six, a large-format art and fashion publication created between 1988 - 1991, by Comme des Garcons. It was an expression and experimentation of the sixth sense of human perception as a means of a transcendence of the five normal senses of human perception. Interesting concept.


This is an image of an artist's illustration of the silhouette of a black hole.


This is an image, by Yong Chuan Tan, featuring a gray celestial body against a deep starry black background. It is often used in online articles regarding black holes, but it is not one.


This is an image of the first-ever close-up photo of black hole M87, which is at the centre of the Virgo A galaxy.

When a massive star dies, it leaves behind objects from which nothing can escape, and so it becomes a black hole.

Black Hole is the theme of the Comme des Garcons Homme Plus F/W 2026/27 collection. Black suit jackets and coats with cutaway lapels/hems/button stands, making the garments appear split, folded back, left open to reveal internal structures. 

Is the political climate of today starting to draw us into a black hole of despair, and does Rei Kawakubo want us to get out of it? I sure do!

The physicist, John Wheeler came up with the term, Black Hole, in 1968, as a way to avoid having to use the cumbersome description "gravitationally completely collapsed object". But, in an earlier inspiration, another physicist, Robert Dicke, had compared the phenomenon to...


Apparently they are not totally black, as a fizz of particles and radiation are emitted. 

Take in this cool book, a great collaboration between scientist and artist. The essay musings are by Janna Levin, professor of physics and astronomy at Columbia University. It is her second book on the subject, the first being, 'Black Hole Blues'.

Halloran's artwork took inspiration from the process of cliche verve, a technique popular in the 19th century for making prints by painting on glass and using that painting as a tool in a photographic darkroom.


Here is an extremely interesting lecture delivered by Janna Levin, explaining black holes, alongside illustrations by Lia Halloran. (2020, I think.)

And a link, if the video doesn't happen to work.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-J-OZqBRxMg&t=461s
"Take solace in your observations, but they will be yours alone. None of your transmission will make it out of the hole to home. All documentation of your demise will follow you into oblivion." (How to Survive a Black Hole, chapter 3.)

Rei Kawakubo's 3rd Paris Fashion Week collection, Fall 1982/83, was titled, 'Holes', and it featured distressed unfinished black garments. Shock! Horror! (more like "Mon Dieu!") was the French fashion establishment reaction, many of them calling the collection names like, "Apocalyptic" and "Hiroshima Chic". 
It was the black dropped stitch sweater created by configuring the knitting machine to produce holes, that did it.
When asked about the sweater, Kawakubo said, "These are tears to some, but to me they're not tears, they're openings that give the fabric another dimension". 
RK has also said, "The void (mu) is important" and "I like to work to work with space (mu) and emptiness". 
The concepts ma and mu converge in her black 1982 sweater ensemble.

It inspired my black hole sweater ensemble.I wonder what people think when I wear it?

There is a wonderful black hole in this garment from CdG's SS2017 'Invisible Clothes' collection. Space and empitness. Ma and Mu.


The ANREALAGE label, established in 2003 by Kunihiko Morinaga, works with the mantra, "God is in the details". 
Its' amazing AW 2015 collection revolved around the way that a spot of light hits objects in darkness, with pitch black garments illuminated by spots of pure white. The basic concept went through a range of different iterations...white light as a print...prints fading into darkness...circles to create focus on a garment...rounded silhouettes....It gets me thinking 'very cool fabric black holes'.




Viktor and Rolf's Fall 2001/02, 'Black Hole' collection was inspired by feelings of negativity. As they said, "We were inspired by black holes, which absorb all light and energy. We wanted to transform negative feelings into something positive and creative." 
The painting of the models faces and bodies was to create an optic effect where you only see shadow. Experiencing the total absence of light and colour forced the audience to focus on the form and line of the garments. (It was not appreciated by everyone, that V&R did this)





And, this one, an asymmetric black dress,
becomes a cool asymmetrical black hole dress.


Black holes can serve as powerful metaphors in literature and the arts, as they are so good at representing an unknown existential dread or danger, something mysterious with a sinister edge.

An artist's conception of the intermediate-mass black hole that may be hidden in the centre of the globular cluster 47 Tucanae.

Another artist's conception, is that of Harry Clarke's illustrations for Edgar Allan Poe's 1841 short story, 'A Descent into the Malestrom', in the 1919 publication 'Tales of Mystery and Imagination'. 
"The edge of the whirl was represented by a broad belt of gleaming spray, but no particle of this slipped into the mouth of the terrific funnel, whose interior, as far as the eye could fathom it, was a smooth, shining, and jet-black wall of water.."
It's a black hole of a whirlpool.

In 1915, Russian avant -garde artist Kazimir Malevich, painted 'Black Square', the first painting of nothing.

Malevich declared Black Square to be the first step of pure creation and the face of the new art, which he called 'Suprematism'.
"To the Suprematist the visual phenomona of the object world are, in themselves, meaningless, the significant thing is the feeling."
Here is some interesting information about the painting.   https://www.rbth.com/arts/2014/01/09/hidden_signs_of_malevichs_black_square_32989.html

Black Square was followed by Black Cross, 

and in 1924, with Black Circle.

Malevich died in 1935, and his funeral featured a custom-designed coffin created by Nikolai Suetin. It featured geometric symbols, a black square and a black circle.

In 2003 the artist group, IRWIN presented an exhibition installation devoted to Malevich, 'Corpse of Art'. It consisted of a precise replica of his coffin, with wax figure, lilies and a Black Square.


Israeli painter, Mordecai Ardon's 1961, 'Landscape with Black Sun', delivers a thought provoking visual metaphor for death and loss.
The sun is replaced with a black circle, making something usually alive with tremendous energy, now seem barren and lifeless. Is Ardon expressing an emptiness in life?
This work is housed in The Jewish Museum in NYC.

In 1976 Slovakian conceptual artist, Rudolf Sikora, started a series of works that explored black holes as the ultimate representation of maximum energy concentration. The black hole was his metaphor for resistance to political repression, that of the Communist Government of Czechoslovakia.






Anish Kapoor's 1992 art installation, 'Descent into Limbo' is a fascinating example of a black hole in art.
Basically the installation is a cube-shaped building inside which, a 2.5 metre-deep hole in the floor is coated in a dark pigment to look like a flat bottomless circle.



Kapoor said, "I have always been drawn to a notion of fear, towards a sensation of vertigo, of falling, of being pulled inwards. This is a notion of the sublime, which reverses the picture of union with light. It is an inversion, a sort of turning inside-out. A vision of darkness. Fear is a darkness of which the eye is uncertain, towards which the hand turns in hope of contact, and in which only the imagination has the possibility of escape."
"The reality there is one of fear. Standing on the edge, somewhere between a hole and a plane, with a diameter and a depth that is more than big enough to completely lose oneself both physically and pyschologically. In limo, in-between. This is not an experience of voiding one's fear into emptiness - it is a conditional experience of fear."

In the first installation of this artwork, visitors had to walk for some time to the remote concrete ediface that contained the void, enter the building, and spend some time looking at the void, trying to understand what is in front of them. So, Kapoor was working time as the "fourth dimension", making the void being made up of concrete, black pigment and time.
(And yes, at least one person fell into the hole, not seriously hurt thankfully.)

And the last one I wish to focus on, Croatian artist Igor Grubic's 1998, 'Black Peristyle', one of his most famous works. 
He painted a black circle in the middle of the peristyle of Diocletian's Palace in Split, a major tourist attraction in Croatia.

It was an homage to an action that took place 30 years earlier when a group of artists painted the peristyle in red. As in 1968, Grubic's work in 1998 was classified as an act of vandalism.
A video if you want to know more  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7UB-brkxJY


Another person interested in art and black holes is author and historian, Lynn Gamwell. She has put together, 'Conjuring the Void: the Art of Black Holes", a collection of black-hole art with 155 colour illustrations alongside information about the science and history of black holes. I like her comment, "Artists and scientists arrive at similar ideas by different paths. Both benefit from looking at each other's work."

This link will take you into some of the images to be found in the book.

In some of my research for this blog, I was introduced to Martin Amis' 1997 novel, 'Night Train.
The story involves a detective investigating the death of a female astromoner, who was doing research on black holes. A quote from the novel pertaining to that subject, "Hawking understood black holes because he could stare at them. Black holes mean oblivion. Mean death. and Hawking has been staring at death his entire adult life.' 

Somewhere along the line looking at information relating to the above quote, I came across a statement written by Blaise Pascal, French mathematician, physicist, inventor, philosopher and Catholic writer, written sometime between 1657 and 1658. It made me think about the last scenes in 2001 A Space Odyssey...I know it's not a black hole, it's the black obelisk, still think it relates.


SLTSLTBsigning off a black hole.


 
 



Friday, 17 July 2026




"What is that precisely?"
"I don't think it's meant to be anything in particular, it's one of these abstract jobs."
"Yes, but, abstract what though?"
( lines from 'One Fine Day', written by Alan Bennett)


















Abstract refers to something that is based on general ideas or concepts, rather than physical real-life objects. Its' Latin roots mean "to pull away", relating to thoughts or ideas detached from concrete reality.


The many different aspects of 'abstract' depend on the context. 

In philosophy, 'abstract' refers to entities, concepts, or reasoning processes that exist independently of space-time and physical causality. Metaphysics is about abstract objects, which lack a physical existence. Philosphers who believe such objects have real existence are known as Platonists. They argue that non-physical concepts such as Justice/Beauty/Truth/Love, exist in their own independent realm.

The School of Athens offers some interesting information on this subject, and other matters.

This video explains it so well.   


In literature, 'abstract' can refer to either a written summary of a larger text, or a concept describing writing that focuses on intangible ideas, rather than physical reality. 
Literature became abstract, according to the latter concept, during the Modernist movement of the early 20th century (1910-1945), influenced by WW1, psychoanalysis, plus visual and revolutionary developments in the arts. Writers abandoned linear plots and objective realities in favor of fragmented, subjective and highly conceptual storytelling, like....

'Finnegans Wake', James Joyce's final novel, published in 1939, two years before his death. 
It took Joyce 17 years to complete, and is an extreme abstraction of language, as Joyce abandoned conventional syntax, applied a web of puns, and added multiple languages which created a dreamlike narrative.
I haven't read it, will I ever read it, who knows. One thing I did read and understand, is that Joyce set Ulysses occuring in one day, so then set out to write a book, which was set over one night.

Ximena Perez Grobet, the founder and owner of Nowhereman Press, is a glorious creator of artists books. 
Here is her fascinating project inspired by Finnegans Wake.

Take this link and you will see a video of the work in progress. It is set in such a beautifully light peaceful setting. Be prepared to take the time.

....
'The Unnamable', Samuel Beckett's 1953 novel , the final work in his post-war trilogy, following Molloy and Malone Dies.

Beckett abandoned traditional plot structure and focused on  internal monologues of fragmented identities who struggle with language and existence. And no, I haven't read this one either.
But I have watched Jenny Triggs interpreted short-film of The Unnamable, made in 1999. This little synopsis might help.
The obsessive narrator, who opens the novel asking, "Where now? Who now? When now?" is a disembodied person living in a large jar in a restaurant window in Paris. Essentially "unnamable", the narrator is referred to as Mahood, Worm and Basil in a series of tales. The final sentence in the novel is a long dramatic monologue. The narrator concludes with the desire to continue living despite an inescapable sense of anguish and entropy:"I can't go on, I'll go on."


If the video does not work.

....
'Orlanda a novel', written by Jacqueline Harpman

This novel is about a woman whose subconscious mind splinters and finds itself in the body of a young man. It references VW's Orlando a Biography in both direct and indirect ways. (I have read Orlando and loved it, such a clever piece of work.)
It was the cover that drew my eye, making me think of these 'abstract breasts' I put together.


In art, abstraction involves the emphasis of form, colour and texture over representational accuracy. It wants to evoke emotions, provoke thought and imagination without the depiction of recognisable objects or scenes. The idea is to engage with the art work on an intuitive and subjective level. Shapes, colours and forms communicate ideas and provoke emotional responses.
'Abstract Figures' Joan Miro

Abstract art came out of the early 20th century, when artists started to challenge the traditional forms of representation.
Cubism, Fauvism and Expressionism laid the foundation for abstraction, by emphasizing colour, form and subjective interpretation.
Alfred H. Barr, in his 1936 book, 'Cubism and Abstract Art', presented a diagramme, which demonstrated the 2 divergent paths abstract art took in the early 20th century.

Key moments in the evolution of abstract art...
  • 1910s Wassily Kandinsky created the first purely abstract works, believing art should evoke emotion.


  • 1920s - 1930s Piet Mondrian explored geometric abstraction and the search for universal harmony.
Tableau I, 1921
Composition II, 1930

  • 1940s - 1950s Abstract expressionism emerged in USA, Jackson Pollock and Mark Rothko emphasizing spontaneity and emotion.
Untitled Jackson Pollock, 1948 -49


Untitled, Mark Rothko, 1944-46

  • 1960s - Present Abstract art continuing to evolve. especially using digital technologies.
Straec 26, Luuk De Haan, 2016


Some ways to appreciate Abstract Art even more
  1. Observe the details: The colours, textures, forms and how they interact.
  2. Reflect on your emotions: How does the work make you feel.
  3. Cosider the context: What is the artist's intent or the historical context of the work.
  4. Interpret freely: There's no right or wrong way to interpret abstract art. Your personal experiences shape your perception.
There is a very good history of abstract art to be found in this interesting video, plus a great introduction to Piet Mondrian's work and how it developed.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-08NQ3Zxy3s


Mondrian's abstracts made fashion.

The famous Yves Saint Laurent dresses. There is great information in this link.



Here is a very informative video about the patternmaking and construction of the Mondrian Dress. The presenter has a very good knowledge of the cutting of a pattern, a lot can be learnt from it. (Here's the link, incase the video does not work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBF6Q51ypz8&t=546s )


Abstract and Clothing.

For Rei Kawakubo, a collection is likely to begin with an abstract phrase. 
"As she does not sketch or sew, it is up to her team of patternmakers to interpret her concepts as best they can and to work creatively to achieve a solution, even if the idea is to start with something perfect and go backwards." (The New Yorker article, 2005)

'Abstract Excellence' was the Comme des Garcons Spring Summer 2004 collection. Rei Kawakubo  provided the title as the conceptual guide. The collection was an exercise in minimalism and focus, as it was stripped down to the pure structural abstraction of a single garment, a skirt, reconfigured in 34 different ways. Fabulous!
This is what Kawakubo had to say, "There's nothing concrete to say about the patterns, they are all abstract...Different abstract shapes were used, and often (I) did not know how the result would come out. There was a lot of experimenting, and the technique of designing was also very abstract. The entire 'abstract' process of creating resulted in strong abstract design."


Wonderful sculptural skirts cut with dynamic folds, circles and clover shapes.

Here are some of them, dancing





An example of the "sculpturalness" of one of the skirts. The black non-woven polyester trim was printed on both sides, and helped to give the skirt its' sculptural effect. So cool.

I had a go creating skirts inspired by aspects of the CdG skirts




And, I even had a go at the amazing headpieces that Kawakubo presented with the collection skirts. The headpieces presented with the collection were traditional headdresses worn by the Herero people of Namibia, in Southern Africa. The shape reflects cow horns, representing the Herero's respect for cattle.
My one...

Here's a connection to view a woman putting one of these amazing headpieces together. I know my construction wasn't as slickly put together as this one!

You might be interested in photographer, Jim Naughten's photo series, 'Hereros'

I love this mobile of the CdG collection ones


Also love this abstract magazine image of one of the skirts from the collection

Italian Vogue always do very cool fashion shoots, like this one...

could it be a still shot from an avant-garde CdG designed Woody Allen film about 3 sisters...

or an Igmar Bergman one...

or Robert Altman's 3 Women?

No, on second thoughts, it's a cool contemporary take on Botticelli's three muses.

When I researched 'abstract excellence', I was led to this explanation, "refers to the tangible, theoretical or conceptual pursuit of being the best, rather than reaching a measurable or physical target, and serves to inspire continuous improvement." I believe that last section is very much Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons.

Tao Kurihara, 
joined Comme des Garcons in 1998. In 2002, she took on the responsibility for the Tricot CdG designing. In 2005 Rei Kawakubo encouraged her to establish her own CdG brand, TAO, which she worked with until 2011, when she returned to managing Tricot CdG. In 2021 Tricot CdG was renamed and rebranded TAO, with Kurihara at the helm.

For her F/W 2026 collection, Kurihara presented 'Abstract Shape'. It was inspired by the work of Dutch artist Ruth van Beek.

Ruth van Beek works with photography and collage, a very interesting artist, and where her work has come from. 
To get an idea of that, watch this video, which was made in 2021. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1382axKGV0

I think Tao Kurihara's inspiration may have come from works created after this video was made. Maybe her 2023 work "The Oldest Thing', where abstract painting is placed side by side with a photograph of an everyday object. Check it out http://www.vanzoetendaal.com/books/the-oldest-thing/

And, definitely what is considered her masterpiece, The Spell.
The Spell is a series of repetitive compositions of oval shapes, born out of a 2021 screen-printing residency Ruth van Beek attended. Cut-out pictures showing all sorts of  everyday things placed on ovals of different tones of pink.

Van Beek said, "I am attracted to the oval shape, because it is so intuitive and feels very human....The shape looks like an egg or a fruit, it could be ripe or not.....It feels fulfilling, like something is getting full of life....I feel that oval can express that."

In 2024, an exhibition centred around 'The Oldest Thing' was held at the creative gallery, laboratory and event space, Vague Kobe, Japan. Is this where Tao Kurihara was inspired?


In the collection 'Abstract Shape", Kurihara was attempting to create clothing using the a circular motif. There were tops made by sewing together circular pieces, there were wonderfully circular skirts, and some glorious balloon skirts. (I actually wonder if Tao Kurtihara was there in the creation of some of the Abstract Excellence skirts.)









Check out the actual collection show in this link https://thefashiondb.com/collections/tao-aw-2026-womenswear-abstract-shape

Tao's use of circular pieces makes me think of my own use of circular pieces.
A shirt,
when worn, drapes like this.
And, a skirt
when worn, its' drape is this. 
I think some of Tao's wonderful 'Abstract Shape' skirts could be cut from the pattern used for this skirt.


Abstraction and clothing continues.

For me, something in both of these abstract images, each displaying a face, happy or sad, take your pick,

is reflected, in its' own way, in these kimono-like garments. (Remember, abstract appreciation is subjective.)


These 2 cool casual summer dresses with abstract face images,

take me to a t-shirt I created.



This is a gorgeous abstract patterned cottoned shirt of a boxy shape, and a nice complementary coloured placket. 
It's TOAST, a British lifestyle brand founded in West Wales, in 1997. The big thing about this brand is it is consciously made clothing that celebrates craftmanship and longevity. They pursue a circular economy approach, which is impressive. I also really like that they work closely with Traid.
The skirt really sets the shirt off as a cool ensemble. The way it is cut on the grain compliments the boxy shirt shape, and that placket. Very nice.


French photographer, Marie Valoynes, under the pseudonym 'mise en', creates wonderful abstract sculptures from various high fashion runway garments. These various images came out 2015/2016 collections. Lots of creative abstract fun.






 scenarios.

I am going to leave the last word with an abstract thought from Art Spiegelman.

Abstract thought is the ability to conceptualise ideas, principles and patterns that are not physically present or directly tied to sensory experience. 
Abstract thought is the ability to conceptualise ideas, principles and patterns that are not physically present or directly tied to sensory experience. 

Abstract thinking allows you to grasp the "big picture", understand metaphors, and think about intangible concepts like freedom, love or other hypothetical scenarios. For example, understanding that the Statue of Liberty is a symbol of freedom, whereas simply seeing it as a large copper statue is concrete thinking. (Where's Trump at!)

Art Spiegleman, take it away...


SLTSLTBsigning off abstractly.