SoLoveToSewLikeTheBoys

 One of the collective nouns for a group of crows is a "murder".

This is a screen shot from Alfred Hitchcock's 'The Birds'. Crows starred, but Hitchcock said ravens were the cleverest, and the seagulls were the most vicious.

If you are interested in an extremely thorough synopsis of the film and background inspiration, this is the link for you. 

https://www.sensesofcinema.com/2009/towards-an-ecology-of-cinema/hitchcock-birds-synoptic-account/

Crows are known for their intelligence and adaptability. They have good problem-solving and communication skills. Apparently a crow does not forget a face!

Link to a video "They say crows are the smartest birds" https://fb.watch/j9ZjJMbI7y/

Ravens differ in being bigger, having a hoarser sound and heavier bills.

In Japan a flock of crows is known as karasu. A karasu was said to be the messenger of the sun goddess, Amaterasu, from whom the imperial family claimed descent.

In the early 1970s when Rei Kawakubo started making clothes, the colour black completely dominated both her collections and Yohji Yamamoto's. Yamamoto said "Black is modest and arrogant at the same time." I don't know if Kawakubo and Yamamoto were an "item" in a personal intimate sense, but they definitely were in a creative constructive sense. Rei Kawakubo became famous for her comment that she "worked in three shades of black."

RK & YY's followers fully embraced their colour palette, dressing head to toe in black. They became known as "karasu-zoku" (crow tribe). 

The clothing was black, loose, flapping, asymmetrical, deconstructed, ripped and unravelled.  

Kawakubo and Yamamoto became synonymous with the colour black, and the "crows".

There hadn't been anything like it before on the fashion catwalk.

They used black as a strong tool for their expression, reducing all elements to zero, using black to accentuate the silhouette.

This link explains Karasu-zoku a little bit more https://www.tokyocowboy.co/articles/karasu-zoku

Sartorial colour black has a long history and a wealth of potent meanings, like power (sex and poverty), as well as being a colour of death and mourning. In western society black was designated for formal evening wear from the early 1800s. 

Coco Chanel made the colour popular in the 1920s in after-5 wear, establishing the phrase "the little black dress". 

And of course Hubert de Givenchy's little black dress for Audrey Hepburn in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's'

A link to it https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/audrey-hepburn-givenchy-little-black-dress-history

Although, they do say if anyone "invented" black, it was Cristobal Balenciaga who did. Balenciaga used black in an excellent effect to establish both simple lines and striking silhouettes. He knew how to cut and construct in such a way to reveal black's varying expressions according to the light and texture of the chosen fabrics.

Balenciaga Fall 1958/59 Haute Couture

A 'Balenciaga in Black' exhibition has been curated in various museums of the world. This is a link for the viewing of it in Kunstmuseum Den Haag in the Netherlands. It is an interesting read, as it connects the affinity with black in both the Netherlands and Spain (Balenciaga's homeland). 

https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/cristobal-balenciaga-new-exhibition-balenciaga-in-black

I have this pattern cutting book,

One of the patterns in the book delivers a Balenciaga look to the dress, with maybe a hint of CdG as well.

It's not that easy to see in my photo, but it is worked in "3 shades of black".

After the likes of Chanel and Balenciaga, maybe we can say Rei Kawakubo "re-invented" black.

In 1988 Kawakubo announced "Red was the new black......Black is no longer strong and has become harder to use", meaning the tide had turned, plus her connection with Yohji Yamamoto had changed.

Here's a link to a video of the Fall 1988  'Red is Black' collection.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9CNcA52xU8

Red and black is my new sltsltb shirt

It has a cool double collar feature.

In 1992 for the CdG 'Lilith' collection, Kawakubo returned to a black, draping, flapping look.

This one features that "three shades of black" concept. It's made from layers of polyester georgette and a tube knit.

I like this presentation of the above garment, both on a mannequin and laid flat, which reveals its geometry and asymmetry. (Naoya Hatakeyama photography)

Same style of presentation, this time 1920 Madeleine Vionnet, silk crepe marocain dress with vertical panels, in black. Maybe a precursor to some of the CdG pattern styles from Fall 1983, Black Crow days?

1983 wonderful black flapping crow CdG garments. (Again, Naoya Hatakeyama photography)

Both of these garments are about the way the fabric hangs due to gravity.

If interested, there was a great exhibition "Exploding Fashion", which examined in excellent detail the work of the pattern makers, who stand behind the designers, and deliver what they design. The above CdG garment was one of the garments that was investigated. Two skilled pattern makers/cutters studied the original garment and delivered a pattern, which assisted in fully understanding the complexity of what might otherwise be considered a simple garment.

An image of the finished result from the study.

Here's a link to a very informative site relating to various study undertaken for the 'Exploding Fashion' project. May not be everyone's cup of tea. Sure is mine tho'!

http://explodingfashion.arts.ac.uk/

And the book was my xmas pressie to me! Great book.

Here's my SLTSLTBoys black constellation dress,

which has this flat shape.

For early Japanese culture, black symbolised secrecy, stealth and cunning - a colour that becomes invisible in the dark - The Samurai. The Samurai must be able to throw his body into nothingness, the colour and image of which is black.

Here are garments that are sold using the word Samurai in the label. Very black.

Samurai Zoroye is the basic three-piece samurai set - a hakama, a dougi, and an obi. Like in this below image.

This is an interesting video showing how the Samurai Zoroye is assembled on the male body, and it's not necessarily all black.

In fact, I think it is a misnomer that Samurai were attired all in black, as the images in this article demonstrates https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/gallery/2018/may/15/last-samurai-london-photography-fair-in-pictures

Although this Samurai armour looks menacingly black.

Interested in Samurai armour? 

Check this link https://yamatomagazine.home.blog/2019/07/14/dissecting-the-parts-of-traditional-samurai-armour/

I know I've shared this dude before, but he connects here, although not all black.... my Samurai made from the pinwheel discs leftover in my classroom.

Rei Kawakubo shared in a 2005 'The Misfit' article written by Judith Thurman, that she was never a druggie or a rebel, "though in my head I liked the bohemian life style." I comprehend that comment.

In the 1950s, black became associated with rebellion and the artistic intellectual fringe. The Left bank existentialists and the American Beat poets were doing their thing in wearing black, lots of black, to express disaffection with societal norms. 

Beatniks. 

The "Beat Generation" rose out of a conversation between Jack Kerouac and John Clellon Holmes in the very early 50s. Apparently Kerouac said, "Ah, this is nothing but a beat generation!" The essence of this phrase can be found in his 'On the Road', "Everything belongs to me because I am poor."

John Clellon Holmes went on to write an article, in  late 1952, in the New York Times, headline 'This is the Beat Generation.'

You can read that article through this link  https://litkicks.com/thisisthebeatgeneration/

I love these fashion referencing videos. The presenter knows her stuff and delivers it well. Want to know more about The Beatniks? It's worth viewing.

She inspired me so much, I went to school the other day, dressed this way, telling my friends "I am channeling my inner beatnik".

The beret, the shades, the denim smock like dress, the black tites, and the sandals, oh, and the pendant. Fun.

A "beatnik chick".

Now this is an interesting article about beatnik women. A typical story, the women not recognised in the same creative manner as the men. The beatnik men holding onto fairly stereotypical ideas of a woman's role in their lives. 

I've read about such situations before, for so many women, post the 60s at that. Famous artists, their wives just as talented, never reach the same heights of fame or acknowledgement.

https://yeoja-mag.com/female-beatniks/

This link has various photos of some of the hip young things who hung out in the beatnik scene.

https://www.vintag.es/2014/10/before-there-were-hippies-there-were.html

There is something about some of those beatnik men that makes me think of Andy, the director, from Tin Tin's 'The Castafiore Emerald', which was originally published 1962.

I believe Herge based him on Jacques Cogniaux, a Belgian Television director. He looks beatnik.

Kawakubo will occasionally return to her black pallet, producing strong, powerful and thought provoking designs. 

Her Fall 2022 collection was called 'Black Rose'. I liked her comment regarding the beauty of the black rose. "For me, the dark beauty of the black rose symbolises courage, resistance and freedom." The black rose in Irish culture is a symbol of resistance against British rule. Of the 16  garments presented in the collection the last 4 were beautifully black. (Fantastic headwear!)

This is a black rose sweater,

which actually comes out of the CdG Fall 2013 collection. I like the holes in the trousers, as it's reminiscent of early day Kawakubo black 'Destroy' stuff.

'Black Rose' inspired this from me.

In 2008 Rei Kawakubo launched a new CdG label, 'Black'. 

She did this in response to the financial crisis of that year. The concept being that the prices for the 'Black' line were 60% of that of the CdG collection. This made the 'Black' pieces relatively affordable. The concept proved so popular RK maintained it.

This guy will tell you more about it.

And, this is the current Black CdG collection being displayed on the Dover Street Market website (March 2023, might be soon to change) Scroll through it, and you get some cool black and pink creations...just a connection to my previous blog.

https://london.doverstreetmarket.com/cdg/black-comme-des-garcons

As stated previously, RK will return to the black pallet, producing strong, powerful and thought provoking designs. The latest Comme des Garcons Fall 2023 is no exception. The coverage for this collection is fascinating.

Apparently, Kawakubo wanted to return to the source. Nothing. She wanted to go back to the beginning. The beginning of the world. The Big Bang!

The collection show was split into 11 sections, each with a different soundtrack. Interesting.

The first group, described as "boxy, elemental tailoring..." accompanied by the music of Siouxsie and the Banshees, "Love in a Void'.

The void/emptiness/blackness

Here's the link to view the other sections, it's a blast...fantastic concept, fantastic creations.

https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/comme-des-garcons/slideshow/collection#25

I am interested in the 'void', as I have recently completed a wall hanging based on the Maori creation tradition. 

"In the beginning Ranginui (Sky Father) and Papatuanuku (Earth Mother) were joined together, and their children were born between them in the darkness. The children decided to separate their parents to allow light to come into their world. After this the children became gods of various parts of the natural world."

My work relates to the void, the emptiness, the darkness, the blackness, the beginning.

I embroidered 'Out of Te Kore they both came'

The New Zealand Fashion Museum, in September 2011, presented a 'Black in Fashion' exhibition. Black is most pertinent in Aotearoa/New Zealand culture.

https://nzfashionmuseum.org.nz/black-in-fashion-wearing-the-colour-black-in-new-zealand/

This is the accompanying book. Worth reading, if you get the opportunity.

Having started this blog with crows, so I will finish with them.

'She Talks To Angels'.

SLTSLTBsigning off

P.S. An interesting and highly relevant book title concept. 

Will we get there? 

I have just posted my latest blog, and then I go on facebook and see this super cool image of Joni Mitchell. How is this for a very cool "beat" looking lady. Black beret, black clothing, and cigarette!