The inspiration for it is something everyday ordinary, some may even think boring and old fashioned, but I think, far from it!
Paper was once at the cutting edge of modern technology, transforming humans abilities to retain and transmit knowledge.
It was invented in China, round about 200 BC.
Before paper there were clay tablets,
papyrus, made from the papyrus plant,
parchment, made from the untanned skins of sheep and goats,
and vellum, a special parchment made from the skin of very young animals, such as lambs and calves.
Cai Lun is the reputed inventor of paper. He worked a mix of mulberry tree bark, hemp and shredded cloth rags with water, mashed it to a pulp, pressed out the liquid, hung it to dry et voila, paper was made. Eventually, this wonderful commodity spread (via the Silk Road) to other parts of the world.
In 1150 the Spanish began making paper, becoming the first paper industry in Europe.
France had a paper mill in 1190. Italy, in 1276 and the first paper mill in England was created by John Tape in 1490, after the invention of Johannes Gutenberg's printing press in 1453.
It is during the 1830-40s that the pulping of extracted wood fibres was first used to create paper, plus the bleaching, which created the paper we are familiar with today.
By the end of the 19th century, most printers in the western world were using this technique, consequently changing how people communicated around the globe. (Rings bells, doesn't it.)
This video is quite a good account of the history of paper, and some other cool aspects about it.
Want to try out your skill at folding a paper aeroplane, and making it fly, take in this link....
https://www.diynetwork.com/made-and-remade/learn-it/5-basic-paper-airplanes
And talking of paper aeroplanes...I have always loved Hussein Chalayan's 1994 concept for this airmail envelope dress. Strictly speaking it's not really made out of paper. It is Tyvek, a high-density polyethylene fibre, which is difficult to tear, but easily cut with scissors.
Isn't it wonderful how it can be folded away into an airmail envelope. I loved receiving these envelopes in the mail box.
Just recently I have learned about 'Rockstock Paper', which is made from ground down waste stone and offcuts used in the building industry, amazing! https://www.stonepaper.co.nz/ to view a wee video describing the product, it looks and sounds quite fantastic.
I love paper and how I scribble away on it. I can be at a meeting where everyone brings out their smartphone to record things and I bring out my diary and pen! Call me old fashioned, I don't care!
As a friend said, after we'd watched 'The Personal History of David Copperfield' , "such wonderful expression of the written word!", and my reply, "and, on paper, wonderful paper was everywhere."
Take the end credits, for example...
http://canvas.pantone.com/gallery/85284441/The-Personal-History-of-David-Copperfield-End-Titles
To quote Isabelle de Borchgrave, "Paper is a magical material."
I have always been captivated with this quote from one of Rei K's patternmakers, many decades ago now "Once she gave us a piece of crumpled paper and said she wanted a pattern for a garment that would have something of that quality." What an astounding brief to present someone.
I have mulled it over for years and finally got the opportunity to give it a go myself. I tracked down a material known as Washable Paper, a leather and fabric alternative and made a 2 metre purchase from the Chinese company. Here it is on my workroom studio table. It has a definite Kraft paper, maybe even parchment, look to it.
These are some of the wonderful paper bag skirts CdG presented in her infamous 1997 collection. I think their material looks softer than what I worked with.
I was given this cute little paper jacket piece, a Trilese Cooper number, with darts buttonholes and buttons, fun.
Paper and patterns... Issey Miyake's A/W 2011 collection was a marvellous expression of both at work.
The show started like an introduction to the basic manufacture of clothing, 2D paper patterns, manipulated into the 3D garment.
Black-clad assistants (maybe the actual patternmakers) folded and stapled paper into five clothing pieces: a tailcoat, a dress, a skirt, a peplum jacket and a collar.
Models wearing these paper garments were followed by models wearing the fabric versions. A fascinating insight into the design process when it comes to soft materials clothes construction.
This link to the Cutting Class site, and its' analysis of the collection is excellent if you want a deeper understanding of the patternmaking that is involved...like, where the grainlines are, the foldline directions, etc.
https://www.thecuttingclass.com/process-as-presentation-issey-miyake/Paper Dresses took off in the 60s and tended to be a blend of 90% cellulose mixed with a synthetic, like nylon, for durability and crease resistance.
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| Andy Warhol inspired paper dress produced by The Campbell Soup Company |
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| Harry Gordon, graphic artist, Poster Dresses were very hip! |
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| 'The Big Ones' paper dress made for Universal Studios |
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/paper-dresses
These are polyester-rayon-paper dresses created for CdG's Spring/Summer 1992 collection. Kawakubo used cut stencil paper, as she thought it looked like lace. Definitely has the delicate nature of lace.
Tao Comme des Garcons came up with some fabulous paper creations in her S/S 2007 collection
"By the end, the dresses morphed into pieces of crinolined confectionery, scissored out of white paper."
What about a leather coat with a paper lapel. Quite stunning.
Let's come back to Isabelle de Borchgrave, who I quoted above. She is an astounding paper couturier. Her cutting, folding, layering and gluing of paper is jaw dropping stuff.
Starting with sheets of paper, one metre by one and a half metres, de Borchgrave creates glorious paper fashions. Check some of them out in this video made at an exhibition of her work.
I have one of her books. It's a delightfully interactive pop-up book.
There is just no end to the wonderful work in paper garments.
This was created for a Vogue magazine photo shoot of fashion accessories. A whole variety of papers were hand-latticed, knitted, ruched and quilted in the works. The corset was made out of Vogue pattern tissue paper, which must have required some skill on behave of the maker.
Lesley Hurst does cool work with paper and silhouette shaping
I used these images in a Yr.10 exercise during Lockdown lessons 'Playing with silhouettes, making shape through modelling and manipulation by the maker' Antonnia's result was fab. It has a Renaissance look about it.
More Lesley Hurst paper shaping for garment silhouettes.
A paper shirt, like an origami one.
Another lockdown exercise, as I told my students 'Origami has many benefits, apart from being a bit of creative fun. It involves..
Have a go at making one.
Now, what about 'Paper Surgery',
These ones are by conceptual artists, Stephen J. Shanabrook and Veronika Georgieva.
They collaborated with Comme des Garcons on an advertising campaign for CDG SHIRT. Their paper surgeries are about a fine line between beauty and ugliness. It's interesting Rei Kawakubo should use it in the world of fashion, which is often regarded as being all about 'the beautiful set'.
Carlo Mittoni, of Brandpower, also presents cool Paper Surgery
Have your own fun with those photos that you aren't that pleased with!
I have come across an interesting account of the history of the paper bag. It is amazing just what can become the symbol for the drive to improve conditions or situations. And, the development of the flat-bottomed brown paper bag by Margaret Knight, fantastic story, apart from the fact that she was not rightfully rewarded. Margaret sounded a fascinating woman. I think she would have shone brilliantly in a Technology class!
https://www.eater.com/2017/11/15/16527598/feminist-history-of-paper-bags
Flat-bottomed paper bags..I saw a fair swag of them during Lockdown! This is barely half of them, but they beat plastic bags don't they.
So, paper, may it continue to be a positive part of our environment. Don't waste it. Recycle it, when you can, and if possible, write a loved one/friend a letter. Letters are such a buzz. You sit there, composing the words, which you write in your very own personal script, no-one else write/prints like you...go on express yourself...SWALK.
SLTSLTBsigning off.
These are polyester-rayon-paper dresses created for CdG's Spring/Summer 1992 collection. Kawakubo used cut stencil paper, as she thought it looked like lace. Definitely has the delicate nature of lace.
Tao Comme des Garcons came up with some fabulous paper creations in her S/S 2007 collection
"By the end, the dresses morphed into pieces of crinolined confectionery, scissored out of white paper."
What about a leather coat with a paper lapel. Quite stunning.
Let's come back to Isabelle de Borchgrave, who I quoted above. She is an astounding paper couturier. Her cutting, folding, layering and gluing of paper is jaw dropping stuff.
I have one of her books. It's a delightfully interactive pop-up book.
There is just no end to the wonderful work in paper garments.
This was created for a Vogue magazine photo shoot of fashion accessories. A whole variety of papers were hand-latticed, knitted, ruched and quilted in the works. The corset was made out of Vogue pattern tissue paper, which must have required some skill on behave of the maker.
Lesley Hurst does cool work with paper and silhouette shaping
I used these images in a Yr.10 exercise during Lockdown lessons 'Playing with silhouettes, making shape through modelling and manipulation by the maker' Antonnia's result was fab. It has a Renaissance look about it.
More Lesley Hurst paper shaping for garment silhouettes.
A paper shirt, like an origami one.
- Good eye hand co-ordination skills
- Sequencing skills
- Spatial skills
- Memory skills
- Attention skills
- Mental concentration
Have a go at making one.
Now, what about 'Paper Surgery',
These ones are by conceptual artists, Stephen J. Shanabrook and Veronika Georgieva.
They collaborated with Comme des Garcons on an advertising campaign for CDG SHIRT. Their paper surgeries are about a fine line between beauty and ugliness. It's interesting Rei Kawakubo should use it in the world of fashion, which is often regarded as being all about 'the beautiful set'.
Carlo Mittoni, of Brandpower, also presents cool Paper Surgery
Take this link for the whole series, and read his initial blurb. He loves paper as well!
Have your own fun with those photos that you aren't that pleased with!
I have come across an interesting account of the history of the paper bag. It is amazing just what can become the symbol for the drive to improve conditions or situations. And, the development of the flat-bottomed brown paper bag by Margaret Knight, fantastic story, apart from the fact that she was not rightfully rewarded. Margaret sounded a fascinating woman. I think she would have shone brilliantly in a Technology class!
https://www.eater.com/2017/11/15/16527598/feminist-history-of-paper-bags
Flat-bottomed paper bags..I saw a fair swag of them during Lockdown! This is barely half of them, but they beat plastic bags don't they.
So, paper, may it continue to be a positive part of our environment. Don't waste it. Recycle it, when you can, and if possible, write a loved one/friend a letter. Letters are such a buzz. You sit there, composing the words, which you write in your very own personal script, no-one else write/prints like you...go on express yourself...SWALK.
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