An 'in the pink' image.

I'm carried away with pink.

"In the Pink' relates to being 'in perfect condition, especially of health'.

The origin's earliest mention is dated to the 16th century, where its meaning was 'the very pinnacle of something', and not necessarily limited to one's health.

In 1597 Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, Act 2 Scene 4, has Mercutio saying "Why, I am the very pinke of curtesie". Pinke was another word for flower. Mercutio's expression means the very height of courtesy.

Here's a video showing 3 different versions of R & J Act 2 Sc 4, and Mercutio expressing his "pinke of curtesie" comment.

The 3rd version of the above is from Franco Zeffirelli's 1968 film. I have watched and listened numerous times and I think the "pinke" quote is omitted, but there is this delightful shot within the scene.

We may not get "the very pinke of curtesie", but we do get this young man in his delightful pink hose.

Other early citations relating to 'in the pink'...

1720 Leigh's play Kensington Gardens quoted "Tis the Pink of the Mode, to marry at first Sight: And some, indeed, marry without any Sight at all." In this instance 'pink of the mode' is the acme of excellence of fashion. (Like that young man above, maybe).

Apparently Thackeray in 1840, used the same phrase "In the very pink of the mode".

And, Charles Dickens Letters of 1845 recorded a much different meaning to our saying with "Of all the picturesque abominations in the world, commend me to Fondi. It is the very pink of hideousness and squalid misery."

In 1905 this appeared in the Kynoch Journal, concerning guns and ammunitions, "Makers may despatch explosives from the factory in the pink of condition."

Perhaps we are getting closer to our 'in the pink'.

There is an association with 'in the pink' regard the jackets worn by UK fox-hunters, but it is unproven. 

An image, from a number-of-years-ago-now Vogue article...The caption reads 'Dogs and Mad Englishmen  Otis Ferry poses (in pinks) with fox hounds...' (Otis Ferry, son of Bryan)

The jackets, which are actually scarlet, are said to have derived their 'hunting pink' association from a tailor called Thomas Pink. Apparently there are no historical records of a tailor called Thomas Pink associated with the making of fox-hunting jackets.

A poem.

Pink appears in the natural world

The Pink Moon is April's full moon. It appears this colour when sunlight reflects off it at the right time.

Farmers Almanac goes into it a little more through this link https://www.almanac.com/content/full-moon-april

Pink skies, as in over New York.

And Lake Tekapo, NZ,

Pink skies are usually due to high atmospheric pressure containing dust particles in the air, which increases the density and starts to work as a filter.

We see blue light in the sky on a clear day because blue & violet wavelengths of light are more readily scattered and dispersed when they encounter the molecules and small particles in our air. We tend to see the sky as blue rather than violet because our human eyes are more attuned to that colour.

So, when it's being filtered due to more dust particles, more violet light than blue is scattered, giving the sky a pinkish hue.

I like this next link, 'Top 10 Things That Are Pink In Nature', and very cool to see Aotearoa/New Zealand's Pink and White Terraces featured.

https://10fantastic.com/things-that-are-pink-in-nature/

Another pink in nature, but not totally natural,

Christo's 1982 installation, 'Pink Islands'. Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida. Pink woven polypropylene fabric covered the surface of the water and extended out 61 metres from each island. The fabric was sewn into 79 patterns to follow the contours of the 11 islands.

If you want to know more, take in the Christo site. Information is provided regard the full on preliminary administrative work, that had to be undertaken, plus images of Christ's sketches, as he planned the concept. (Christo passed away in 2020)

https://christojeanneclaude.net/artworks/surrounded-islands/

There are so many wonderful pinks!

Check them out here, 99 of them...https://www.colorsexplained.com/shades-of-pink-color-names/

Rei Kawakubo presented a wonderful array of pink in a variety of collections.

Fall 1995

Spring 2000

Fall 2001

Spring 2005

Spring 2008

Fall 2012

Spring 2014

Fall 2016

Spring 2018

Fall 2018

Spring 2020

Fall 2020

Spring 2022

And the one pink creation from her famous 1997,  'Body Meets Dress Dress Meets Body' collection. Baby Pink gingham is so sweet.

An image of its interior,

inspired Annie Lomax's sensual soft sculpture.

Nick Knight, SHOWstudio, presented some very cool images of the CdG Fall 2016 '18th Century Punk' collection, for an Another magazine shoot.

He also presented the images in a video, check it out via this link.

https://hypebeast.com/2016/10/nick-knight-comme-des-garcon-video

I love the Bubblegum Pink polyurethane garments, and it was such a buzz to create an inspired version of this one

I made my one out of scuba knit fabric. 

A couple of other pink 'solovetosewliketheboys' constructions

   

I was interested to read of a 'pink lavender' in the 99 Pinks site. HEX#D8B2D1

I guess that makes this skirt a pink shade. Never thought of it as a pink before.

Could this also be noted as 'pink lavender'? No, I think it's more Rose Dust HEX#9E5E6F

In 2018 New York's Fashion Institute of Technology held the exhibition "Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Colour". The curator, Valerie Steele, presented an interesting lecture concerning the history of pink.

A 2021 Vogue discussed the power of pink https://en.vogue.me/fashion/history-of-pink/
Included the shocking pink dress Marilyn Monroe wore in the 1953 film, "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes"

And Madonna recreated the same scene in her 1984 Material Girl video

As I state in my sidebar I'm a Material Girl. 'I see the value in material garments and their qualities. I know how garments are put together. I can talk to people about fibres. I have a reasonable concept of a fabric's construction by its hand and lustre. I appreciate the fine detail in a garment.'

What about men and pink?

The Great Gatsby, chapter 7, Tom Buchanan making his comment about Jay Gatsby being nouveau riche, therefore he will never fit in.

‘About Gatsby! No, I haven’t. I said I’d been making a small investigation of his past.’

‘And you found he was an Oxford man,’ said Jordan helpfully.

‘An Oxford man!’ He was incredulous. ‘Like hell he is! He wears a pink suit.’

The Robert Redford and Leonardo DiCaprio pink suits.

These bamfstyle connections provide excellent information,if interested in the fine sartorial features of each pink suit.

https://bamfstyle.com/2013/05/10/redford-gatsby-pink-suit/

https://bamfstyle.com/2015/04/10/gatsby-2013-pink-suit/

And, of course, 1955 Elvis Presley.

Comme des Garcons Homme presented a couple of cool pink suits in its Fall 2023 collection

And CdG Shirt presented a 'Pink Panther' shirt in a 2005 season.

Pink Panther,

with the cool Henry Mancini theme tune.

There is one connection with men and pink that has a hideous history.

Die Rosa Winkel.

The identification badge assigned by the SS to homosexuals in the concentration camps.

Both of these articles explain what the situation was in Germany pre Nazis, then when they had control, what its hideous oppressive regime imposed on innocent people.

https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/the-men-with-the-pink-triangle-heinz-heger

https://wienerholocaustlibrary.org/2021/02/09/persecution-of-gay-people-in-nazi-germany/

The symbol has evolved into an important reminder for the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community of the continuing homophobia and inhumanity against them and other repressed minorities around the world. 

The Pink Triangle San Francisco transform the side of the Twin Peaks north hill facing downtown San Francisco into a memorial by installing a giant pink triangle

In 2018 Nike caused some controversy, when they put out their Pink Triangle sneakers

It is worth reading this article, very valid criticism made regard this high roller company doing this sort of thing.

https://www.dezeen.com/2018/06/06/nike-releases-controversial-trainer-pink-triangle-pride-lgbtq-design/

Last connection with men and pink

I like the story of how the band took on the name

Inflatable flying pigs were one of the regular happenings at Pink Floyd live shows. One made it onto the 1977 'Animals' album cover.

Watch Big Piggy fly over Battersea Power Station.

Takes me to my 'If pigs could fly' hoody. Sourced the fabric from the Woodville Fabric store on a road trip one time.

As I was going about my research for this blog, I came across this cool pink CdG Tricot Jacket. I love its plain knit construction

and, of course the inspiration is a Coco Chanel iconic two-piece suit jacket.

For those of you interested, The Victoria & Albert Museum is going to present an exhibition dedicated to the work of Coco Chanel, with over 180 looks on show. The exhibition will open 16 September 2023.

https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/14123/the-uk-s-first-major-coco-chanel-exhibition-is-coming-to-the-va

 

Here's another cool knitted pink product. Remember 2017 Women's March on Washington, pink pussy hats were worn as a symbol against Donald Trump's sexism. 

Pink was used as a symbol of feminine power.

You'll find the pattern via this cool site https://www.pussyhatproject.com/knit

The actual stimulus for this Pink blog was Debbie Harry's 2019 memoir, 'Face It'. I read it during my summer holiday break. 

On page 285 Harry was writing about her 1983 'Debravation' album, in particular the 'Strike Me Pink' song. There was controversy concerning the video for it. The theme was the Houdini water tank trick and the video was not meant to imply any kind of fatality. Debbie Harry did not like the video that was shot, as it really had nothing to do with the song.

Quote Harry, "It isn't an angry song, it's a sexy song with a sort of bluesy, positive lyric-Strike me pink. Not Strike him Dead. "Baby your touch is magic...maybe you'll bring me a lucky streak/ Well strike me pink."

Harry went on to describe "the original plan was that I would come in wearing a fantastic pink dress, looking very feminine and lovely, and the I would wave a magic wand and the guy would escape. There's something powerful about the colour pink. It's something that dates from the cradle, a system created to distinguish male and female sexuality, hence there are some adult males who get the instinctive drive to do that "man" thing for a girl in pink....Pink was a smart move for the singer Pink. Just or almost as smart as "Blondie". I have always thought the contrast between innocence and lusty sexuality, like that between good and evil, is irresistible."

But, the pink dress never  arrived, and the only other costume at the shoot was a man's suit and a tie! No magic wand, the man drowned. Apparently Harry was dating a magician/illusionist at the time!

The video. I agree Debbie, it's not great.

I am going to sign off with a connection, once again with the great bard.

Tina Fey's 'Mean Girls' retold in Shakespearean verse.

"On Wednesdays we, the Plastics, array ourselves in pink! We're together."

And, hey, fancy that, Pink is coming to NZ, March 2024.

SLTSLTBsigning off the think-pink way!

 I have just viewed Auckland Art Gallery's 'Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera - Art & Life in Modern Mexico', and when I stepped into the room displaying Frida Kahlo's 'Diego on My Mind Self-Portrait as Tehuana' (1943),

the glorious CdG Spring 2012 collection, White Drama, instantly came to mind!

Maybe because, I had just walked through the room showing the glorious garments representing the dress and style of Frida Kahlo. 

I adored the colours, the silhouettes, the simplicity of structure...the fact that they had clothing on display. (Mind you, Akld Art Gallery is not averse to clothing/fashion exhibitions)

The CdG White Drama collection is about the ceremonial grandeur of clothes.

The Frida Kahlo clothing is about the demonstration of her Mexican pride and identity.

Kahlo took on the traditional Tehuana dress, floral hairstyle, wide skirts, and embroidered huipiles when she was 20, the same age she joined the Mexican Communist Party.

The Tehuana costume is one of the most representative of Mexico. It comes from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

These glorious garments start with the strong textile skills of the Indigenous women, who create beautiful fabric using the versatile backstrap loom. Squares of cloth with textures, patterns and embroideries of giant flowers, birds and animals create the stunning garments, such as Frida Kahlo wore.

This is a good image of a backstrap loom.

One end is tied to a tree or pole, while the other end goes around the waist of the skilled crafter. (The backstrap loom was used among numerous cultures, African, Asian, and even Scandinavian, with the great aspect being that it is a highly portable method of weaving.)

Here's good view of one in action.

This link will take you through the beauty of the craft, and what it has to offer the women who undertake it, as it relates to huipil. https://www.mikoleon.com/blogs/news/the-backstrap-loom-and-the-huipil-weaving-emblems

The Huipil is a traditional embroidered style of dress in Mexico. The word means "Blouse or ornate dress", and it is usually decorated with embroidery, lace, braids and ribbons. The pattern of the huipil often reflects the ethnicity, family status and religious background of the person wearing it. 

A well-woven huipil can last 20 to 30 years, if it is properly cared for. After that it might then be cut into little pieces of fabric, and used as a rug or quilt. I like that factor.

This article takes you through some beautiful Huipil and the stories behind them, as worn by young modern day Mexican women.

https://www.vogue.com/article/the-beautiful-stories-behind-8-of-oaxacas-traditional-outfits

After I had visited the Akld Art Gallery exhibition, I was so inspired I came home and constructed my interpretation of a huipil. 

I created it out of fabric I purchased in London's Berwick Street, over 17 years ago! The only shaping is in the neckline. A friend asked me if it was embroidered, to which I replied, "I would not say embroidered, but an embellishment on the fabric delivers a modern take on that concept."

The 'Resplandor' is the huipil of the head, as so gloriously demonstrated in "Diego on My Mind Self Portrait as Tehuana".

It is a small huipil with a collar and ruffles. Vestigial sleeves are evident, starched but not worn as such. The entire head is inserted and the ruffled neck frames the face. The garment covers the shoulders like a cloak, with one sleeve in the front and the other sleeve behind.

Isn't it beautiful.

Italian designer, Maurizio Galante's 2019/20 Fall Haute Couture collection was a tribute to the Mexican culture, in particular the Resplandor, which is what he called his collection.

Apparently, Galante worked with Mexico's top fashion institute and makers in 18 parts of the country on this collection, which endeared him to the Mexican people, as it was felt he gave credit where credit was due, consequently he was not accused of any cultural misappropriation.

Here is a link to the collection. It is quite beautiful. https://door11.com/maurizio-galante-couture-fall-winter-2019-paris-27944/

And, this particular one,

again, has me thinking CdG, the 'Monsters' collection.

Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics has a design on what could be seen as a resplandor style, a hooded t-shirt.

And, my take of it. Interesting.

Before I go further, this video, 'The Life and Times of Frida Kahlo', is well worth a view. So much of her life is revealed, which made her the artist she is.

In 2014, an exhibition 'Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Frida Kahlo', was presented in La Casa Azul Museo. 

La Casa Azul Museo is the house in Coyoacan, a suburb near Mexico City, where Frida Kahlo was born and raised. She also lived in it with Diego Rivera.

Kahlo's wardrobe had been discovered in the bathroom of La Casa Azul in 2004, 50 years after her death.

The exhibition presented Kahlo's original garments alongside contemporary designs reflecting inspirational aspects of the artist's clothing.  

This link will take you into the exhibition, https://grey-magazine.com/chronicle/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-khalo/

I think the CdG dress, which is from the 2012 White Drama collection, is this one, although the exhibition shows it with long sleeves,

and, I also think the connection with Kahlo is from her 1944 painting, La Columna Rota (The Broken Column). An extremely evocative image of the agony and anguish that Kahlo experienced in her life. Tears, pins. pain, broken body.

Want to know more about this astounding painting? Here's a good link.  https://artincontext.org/the-broken-column-frida-kahlo/

Givenchy's Fall 2010 Haute Couture collection is also included in the exhibition. Riccardo Tisci said "his inspiration was Frida Kahlo and her three obsessions: religion, sensuality, and given the painter's lifelong battle with spinal pain, the human anatomy."

I am taken with these shoes from the exhibit, and how they accommodated Frida,

they are so like the style of shoe I like to wear.

In 2016, 'Frida Kahlo: Fashion As The Art of Being', by Susana Martinez Vidal was published.

This is a very interesting lecture, delivered by Susana Martinez Vidal, author of the above book, in the first half, and Circe Henestrosa, curator of the La Casa Azul exhibition, in the second half.

Here's a link, in case video doesn't play ball https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uM24GM1Evo

I also viewed an informative lecture relating to 'Kahlo and Indigenismo in Mexico'. It was held at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. The lecturer looks at pre-Hispanic and colonial era of Mexican history, revealing how Kahlo and her contemporaries worked with this deep history.

(Again, a link, just in case https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZpI52-dyEm8)

In 2018 the wonderful V&A presented a Kahlo exhibition, 'Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up'. 

Again, it was based on the discovery in La Casa Azul, and got described as "A fresh perspective on Kahlo's compelling life story through her most intimate personal belongings."

This will take you to all sorts of interesting snippets, https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up items to read, videos to view and discussions to listen to.

And of course, they have a wonderful 'Make and Do' section, in this case, a huipil. 

Remember when I was describing the one I made, I said the only shaping was in the neckline, if you take this link and view the downloadable pattern, you will see that is the case.

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/sew-your-own-mexican-style-huipil

The V&A displayed a cool sculpture, 'Frida Kahlo in Flowers', created by Philippa Craddock and Jacob Hausburg.

I think there is an aspect of this delightful Frida touch in some of the garments from the Comme Des Garcons Fall 2005 collection, Broken Bride.

And Jean Paul Gaultier's 1998 Spring RTW collection, which was inspired by Frida Kahlo and the goth rocker Marilyn Manson. 

There's many a cool take on the floral headwear.

It is worth viewing the whole collection, if interested https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1998-ready-to-wear/jean-paul-gaultier

There is something about this one I really like, the way it captures Frida in a masculine suit and the flowers in the hair.

Frida in a masculine suit.

Here's a nice way to introduce young ones to Frida Kahlo's creativity, a cool craft making session. 

https://www.artbarblog.com/make-frida-kahlo-felt-flower-crowns/?unapproved=41428&moderation-hash=fa302555bcce0a87cad6735d2e4bf64e#comment-41428

In September, 2022, La Palais Galliera opened their exhibition, 'Frida Kahlo, Au-Dela des Apparences'.

 Again, the Museo Frida Kahlo had lent out over 200 objects from La Casa Azul. Garments, accessories, correspondence, cosmetics, medicine and orthopaedic aids. The exhibition traced the way Frida cultivated her image, that image that reflected her cultural heritage, her experience of gender and her experience of living with a disability. 

This pdf presents lots of information relating to the exhibition  https://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/sites/galliera/files/cp_dp_visuels/dossiers_de_presse/dp_eng_frida_bd_0.pdf

It covers a variety of interesting information, and the section that interests me, relates to this book.

Frida's corset. 

Katerina Jebb was invited by both the Museo Frida Kahlo and the Palais Galliera to capture Kahlo's world in La Casa Azul. 

English born Jebb, a self-taught artist, initially focused on photography, but went on to create wonderful work based on photomontage, using a scanner. Her work for the above publication is described as engaging in a dialogue with Frida's writings. I would love to flick through this book!

Here is a glorious example of her work, just to give you some idea. It does not relate to the Frida Kahlo exhibition.

I now return to my Auckland Art Gallery experience. 

I appreciated the Patti Smith connection, her photos from the time she visited La Casa Azul in 2012, and the profound experience it was for her.

This site, https://www.faena.com/aleph/when-patti-smith-visited-frida-and-diegos-casa-azul, delivers aspects of Patti's experience at La Casa Azul. There is an interesting image at the end, it relates to Patti Smith's 'Wave' album. The image is evocative, but is it the appropriate thing to do?

Check out this site, I think he/she is on to something valid.  

https://inbedwithfridakahlo.wordpress.com/2016/05/

I loved this painting by Diego Rivera. 'Portrait of Natasha Gellman'

My fabric creation homage to it. An Arum Lily. (Calla Lily)

Last image from me, my huipil, wearing it with necklace, which has an aspect of thorn edges to it.

 Made me think about Frida's 'Self Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird'

This video discusses the artistic skill Frida brought to this painting.

SLTSLTBsigning off after a highly stimulating visit to Auckland Art Gallery.