Sunday, 18 May 2014

Blog # 5

I run a Sew What Club after school on Monday and Wednesday.  If a student wishes to catch up on her project work, it is a good time to do so.  It is also a time for any students to come in and use a sewing machine, which they may not have access to at home.  Today, 3 students came in to work on their respective class projects.  It's an opportunity for them to get ahead.  Meoghan is working on her dress, Sincere is moving along with her bag and Michaela is completing the toile for her very cool skirt pattern, which is inspired by a Givenchy collection.  Here they are, aren't they lovely....


   Last term I used the Club to run an Infinity Scarf workshop for my colleagues.  There is a wonderful company, known as 'The Sewing Republic', and I received their flyer about the construction of  an 'Infinity Scarf'.  I thought it looked rather fab, so I sussed out some suitable fabric samples, teachers who were interested told me what they wanted and away we went. Lucy made one for herself, Cath made one so she could show her daughter how to make one, and Anne- Marie got a great idea for creating presents for her family living in the northern hemisphere.  They are "easy peasy" to make, google the Sewing Republic, if you think you might be interested.
Cath & Lucy at work

Lucy's Infinity Scarf

Anne-Marie & Ashley making their scarves

I made my one from a beautiful silk tartan chiffon.  I made it extra long so it can be doubled over for a shorter style or worn longer for a different effect.  I'll come back to this because I want to take up on the tartan theme. 

When I was running the workshop, Stacey told me about a web site she'd come across, which demonstrates how to knit an Infinity Scarf with your hands!  Have a look at it.
Years ago I used to knit big string bags with huge wooden knitting needles, lots of creative fun, 'cos it was quick and easy. 

Rei Kawakubo has often worked with tartan.  In her S/S 2006 RTW 'Lost Empire' collection, tartan fabric was very evident.  RK described the collection as an exercise in cutting without a pattern.  Apparently all the pieces has been draped on mannequins, creating fabric bunches around shoulder lines, wrappings of tulle for tops and tartan for skirts. I loved how she worked pasifika prints and tartan together.  Some reviewers thought it was RK having a bad day (good to know even the best do!).  Sarah Mower described it as a "homage" to Vivienne Westwood's Royal collections.
 (In 2008 the Viva supplement published an interesting article about Copyright (a grey area in the fashion industry at the best of times) and it commented on homage as..."the designer has paid homage to something - anything from artists to film-makers to other fashion labels. The phrase indicates some sort of loving servitude; the designer admires the creativity of someone so much that they've paid them the ultimate compliment and worked it alongside their own themes." )

I can't really image Rei having 'loving servitude' for other designers, but I'm sure she recognises their work in some shape or form...what designer doesn't?

In Rei's A/W 2010 RTW collection, tartan was evident again.  This time Rei described the collection as "inside decoration", rather conceptual, but that's RK.  It was described as an exercise in pure form, meaning what exactly?  Padding was placed on shoulders, hips and backs, creating wonderful shape and structure.  I found it reminiscent of her infamous S/S 1997 RTW collection 'Dress meets body, body meets dress'.  That particular collection upset a lot of people, as there were padded sections creating weird shapes that were considered unflattering and very non sexy.  In my opinion, that's the cool thing about Rei, flattery and sexy are 2 features she has never pursued in her designs.  For a start, she never sends a model down the runway wearing stilettos!  
S/S 2006 RTW

A/W 2010 RTW

I love the combination of the different tartans, some cut on the straight and other sections cut on the cross.  Here are some delicately composed  images that define the design concept very appropriately.




Now, here is my "homage" to Rei's collections using tartan...........

It was such a great way to use up big pieces of tartan and pasifika prints I had collected. And the idea to blend them together was stimulating.  I worked the skirt without a pattern as Rei's '06 collection had done. Basically it's a big rectangle, the 2 pieces stitched together, a fold/pleat here and there, gathered onto elastic and away I go.  The t-shirt was constructed years ago but works really well with the skirt, as does my tartan silk infinity scarf.
The shorts are lined, which folds up the hem as well...kinda like those "puff ball" skirts....The jacket  is the same tartan I used for the shorts pockets, which were cut on the cross.  A pasifika floral front with cuffs & waistband being an interesting black/white check elastic I'd picked up some where, and every button is different, same size but different.  I like this concept....that's why I purchased this set of drawers!!

The images are different, handles are different, knobs are different.  There is a lot of furniture working this creative concept nowadays.

Rei worked with tartan in her FW2000 and FW2003 RTW collectuions.  The 2003 one was known as "Lone Traveller".  It was a cool concept, cloth bag pack containers were built into some of the constructions, and some of the garments had quotes printed on them e.g. Kierkegaard "The majority is always wrong".  Gene Krell "Conformity is the language of corruption"  "Viva, the one percenters".  Look them up, they are interesting dudes.
I don't know the theme of the 2000 collection and there are not many images available.  I love the ruffles cut in the tartan and again she mixes colours and tartans.

FW 2003 RTW

FW 2000 RTW
I found some tartan pieces that had been scrunched up and become very creased.  I heat set the pieces to set the creases even more and worked them into a simple jacket/cardigan and sweater...creating these....

I found some cool tartan covered shank buttons for the red jacket/cardigan...someone had been cleaning out their workroom...and they worked perfectly...the pockets are different in size and that works as well...does for me anyway.  The sweater has 3 really good safety pins attached, they are old ones 'cos you don't find them like this today, well I don't anyway, and I sewed neat buttons on to help hold the scrunched fabric in place.   Again, these buttons are oldies...that same person who was cleaning out their workroom.

If I had more scrunched fabric I would like to have worked it round the left sleeve, kept the line going..I think that would have completed it nicely, but never mind.
  
My top was inspired by this CdG one, which is quite wild, some people probably wouldn't handle this too well.  It would be interesting to know when it was made, because it probably related to a collection, which would help explain it.  Crochet has become a popular design feature of late, using crochet peggy squares in some form, great idea. 

Think that's it for now.  Love tartan and always will.  Lots of creative types love tartan.  In fact the study of tartan is massive research on it's own...so....go to Scotland young thing, go to Scotland!

SLTSLTBsigning off.














Tuesday, 29 April 2014

To start with, I want to return to a quote I used in my first blog.......

"Fashion has always been a repetition of ideas, but what makes it new is the way you put it together" (Caroline Herrera).

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac 1994
I have come across some interesting collection works of other designers, which connect with CdG concepts.
Comme des Garcons AW2009 RTW


This site will show Castelbajac's whole collection.  It is colourful and fun, as a lot of his work is.  Google images of his work for a blast of colour.
Here is another design of Castelbajac's which relates with CdG.

AW 2011/12
CdG AW 2007/08 RTW





There is a surreal element to these design features, which many a designer has played with over the decades. Another one who played with the hands around the waist is Lesage.  In 1986 he designed this belt feature.

.
They remind me of the queen of surreal design, Elsa Schiaparelli.  She produced wonderful design concepts during her heyday in the 20/30s, same era as Coco Chanel.  Like a lot of designers, Schiaparelli associated and worked with a number of interesting artists of the day e.g. Dali and Man Ray.  Apparently Chanel once describer her as "that Italian artist who makes clothes".  Does that sound just a little bitchy?!  What Schiaparelli did seem to have, was a good eye for really effective knit fabric.  She sourced good fitting knits and utilised them in fab bow knit sweaters, which secured her fame as a designer.  As it has been said, Schiaparelli's innovative approach still influences fashion today.  Check this image of one of Schiaparelli's bow knot sweater and work from CdG's AW2007 RTW collection.  What do you think?
And one last piccie of a cool design from Schiaparelli, bearing in mind that Kawakubo has often offered designs with extra sleeves and neck holes.  

Lots of influence and inspiration
Here are some more images, that reflect that influence/inspiration factor.

Comme des Garcons AW 2007/08 RTW in the top left, the rest are Hussein Chalayan SS 2010. Chalayan designed white jersey gowns with ceramic fingers and thumbs clutching the drapery in the necessary sections. Wonderful!

So, taking another quote "It's not where you take things from - it's where you take them to" (Jean-Luc Godard.)

And this is my take on CdGs AW 2009/10 collection........
a t-shirt with a machine stitched shirt front in black thread.  A bit of fun.  

I have only ever purchased 2 CdG items.  A bag that came from the Broken Brides collection and one of the Play t-shirts.  I got a L size, which it really wasn't, so I've done a bit of upcycling with it.  I took a bigger black t-shirt and stitched the 'Play' one on to it and used all these little black safety pins I had for embellishment around the neckline, creating this..
A homage to Rei K.  I've played with a couple of CdG design concepts, and I'll get more wear out of it now. 

I have a few other ideas on the go... always have!  But the only thing I have actually fulfilled recently is a pattern for a skirt that is influenced by CdG's SS13 collection, which was strong on a theme of crushing.
I've drafted a simple A line skirt pattern, which will have a folded/crushed feature at the hem.  I'm going to go with black, as one can always do with another black skirt in one's wardrobe. The other skirt project I'm working on, is rearranging a pink skirt I made at the beginning of the year.  It is rather plain and boring, so I'm going to smarten it up with a ruffled underskirt, which will make it much more fun to wear.  There is always something to work on!



I have come across some other CdG lovers.  
One of them is a wonderful woman called Lynn Yaeger, a New Yorker, who has a great approach to living life successfully.  She goes out into the world the way she wants to, not the way other people think she should.

Do You Love the Way You Look?
Believe it or not, it's possible. (Without surgery, drugs, or denial.) Five women explain how they came face-to-face with—and even grew to appreciate—what they see in the mirror.
Photo: Brigitte Lacombe


All Dolled Up

Fashion writer Lynn Yaeger celebrates being one of a kind.

Here are some reasons I had a hard time making myself look like Cheryl Tiegs on the cover of Seventeenmagazine: Unlike Tiegs, I had flappy ears, chubby cheeks, tiny lips, and virtually no eyelids or eyebrows—all of which made me look more like the Parisian ladies of the evening in a 1930s Brassaï photograph than a California-blonde cover girl.

The gulf between the reality of my looks and the cultural ideal only widened when I began to work in the fashion industry. Early on, I decided to ignore the industry's dictates—so stifling, unattainable, judgmental—and make my own rules. I had long admired women with strong signature looks—Anna Piaggi, Diana Vreeland, Isabella Blow—for whom the fashion world seemed to make an exception. And I found myself reaching far outside the box for role models: to the women in Pre-Raphaelite paintings (those floaty clothes suited my physique far better than jeans and a T-shirt); to silent-movie heroines (their pale complexions were easy for me to replicate); even to Victorian dolls (whose round faces and rosebud mouths reminded me of me).

Inspired, I started experimenting. The copper henna I threw on my head to give my hair a quirky tint was a miracle—coating my limp bob and making it bouncier than I'd ever dreamed possible. And maybe there wasnothing to be done for my abbreviated lids, but I could work wonders with my lips, exaggerating them into a dark Kewpie-doll shape that, unlike eyeshadow, suited me to perfection.

People have asked how I get the courage to walk the streets in, say, a shredded Comme des Garçons coat over a tutu, with metallic orange hair. I owe my confidence at least in part to my parents, who were convinced I was the cutest thing on Earth and told me so every single day. (Recently, seeing my reflection at a party, I could almost hear my mom saying, "Lynnie, you look so pretty!")

Though some of my more extreme choices have provoked laughter or incredulity, I also get more compliments than I could have imagined. This may be because I live in New York City, where a certain level of eccentricity is appreciated. But I like to believe that no matter where I lived, people would come to respect—maybe even like! admire!—the steps I've taken to create my own nutty, undeniably unique, and for me, deeply satisfying, look.

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And you have got to be successful at it when you are being used as a style form, like in this image
or a fashion illustrator produces an image of you, like this.  (Natalia Jhete is the illustrator)


and here she is in black and white
So cute!(maybe she won't like being described as cute, don't know.)  Anyway, Go Lynne, you inspire.

The other very interesting CdG lover I have come across, is found on:-   www.the-rosenrot.com
Go to 'Categories', then 'Designer Talk', then 'Why the feminist in me loves CdG'.....she expresses her reasons very well and I am in total agreement.

Well, I think that is enough for now.  I seem to have been banging away at this blog for long enough!

SLTSLTBsigning out for now.




































Friday, 25 April 2014

new blog time

In my last blog, I mentioned Hussein Chalayan, and the amazing collection he once created around the theme of furniture.  Actually, furniture was not the theme of the collection.  It was Refugees, and their escaping a bad situation with only the clothes on their backs.  If you go onto this website http://www.flawlizfox.com/hussein-chalayan-afterwords-autumnwinter-2000/  
(highlight and right click should do it) you will see some good images of this work.  The video is a cool way to view the collection at work.

 Chalayan brings a strong architectural talent to his clothing design work.  He may have initially started training in this field then moved over to fashion/clothes design.  There are some wonderful books available on his work, check them out one day, any good library should stock them.

This is a photo (from the newspaper, can't remember which one) of a Massey University student's work which relates to a furniture theme.

Looks cool in this photo. Well done, Lisa Holmes.  I've constructed clothes from furniture fabric. That can have issues, but the clothes should last longer than the cushions I made from cotton shirt material!  You gotta realise, cushions come under a lot of abrasion.  Still they lasted a reasonable number of years...........................................

I have been off on a tangent, following some more amazing work by Hussein Chalayan.  A collection he created in 2006/7, titled 'one hundred eleven'.  (7 years ago! extremely innovative work)  It is the last 5 garments that really interest me.  They related to a 111 year history of fashion, ranging from  approximate 1900 to 2007.   What a fascinating concept!  Each dress represents a period of time in that time span, such as Edwardian and Twenties.  Chalayan designed it so each of the 5 dresses morphed 3 decades and actually transformed in shape, but he did do this with the help of other very clever folk.  Go onto www.technologyreview.com/news/406705/transforming-clothes/  

to read about the company that helped Chalayan achieve his design concept.  It's very interesting from a "technology" (and I'm referring to NZ curriculum here) point of view.  I am interested in the comment "...took over 6 months of experimentation with motors, pulleys and wires fed through hollow tubes to arrive at the subtle effect that Chalayan was seeking.  One of the design challenges was keeping the technology lightweight yet strong enough to move the delicate fabrics and materials."  Functional modelling and specifications examples, if ever there were.  


1906-1916-1926

1926-1936-1946



1946-1956-1966


1966-1976-1986

1986-1996-2007



2007-
Quite astounding work isn't it.

Issey Miyake is another wonderful innovator.  He may not be at the helm as much as he used to be, but the various labels, A-POC, Pleats Please and Issey Miyake still resonate with his amazingly creative spirit.  This was an interesting Issey image I came across.........
'cos..... I had a piece of fabric hanging around my workroom studio for ages...I'd pick it up, turn it over, think this, think that, then decided I'd manipulate it and make it into a scarf.  I tied wooden buttons, heaps of them,into it, steamed it and this is the result......
I had been given these lovely old buttons and thought they would be the way to fasten my scarf so it would stay in place. I love making use of what I have lying around.  It's one of my small approaches to the sustainability issue that is very important to this industry i.e working within the clothing/fabric world, in whatever shape or form.  Trying to reduce waste has become an important approach to my work.  I just love using up fabrics/haberdashery I have lying around my workroom, and some of the
 results are creatively satisfying, which I want to share in future blogs.  Oh, there is just so much I want to share! 

Anyway, coming back to SLTSLTBs. I love CdG inspired skirts.  I have lots of them in my wardrobe, and I just want to leave you some that work with a very interesting panel idea, plus they portray the concept that the skirt has been slashed/cut apart and a panel inserted, very CdG.  I'm not sure what collection they connect to, maybe someone can inform me. 

CdG Shorts
CdG Skirt
My 1st Skirt in this theme.  Pleated skirt with the inserted panel.


My 2nd skirt in this theme.  Straight skirt with the inserted panel.
Well, really think I should put this particular blog to bed.  Lots more to come in the next one.


SLTSLTBsigning off