Saturday 15 June 2024

I have recently come across the work of the young American photographer, Francesca Woodman.
It was this shot that sparked my interest. 
Untitled, from the Caryatid series, 1980

Column-like, I thought.

Two more of her photos, with columns.
Untitled 1977-78


Untitled 1979-80

That first 'Untitled, 1980' image was used as a section in Woodman's architectural caryatid work.
Architectural caryatids are the female figures that serve as support for the entablature of a building. 

Athens Acropolis

Woodman produced her version in 'Blueprint for a Temple' (1980), a collage of 29 photographs printed on architect's blueprint paper. She posed friends as caryatids supporting a building Woodman created from stitched-together images of a New York apartment.

Sadly, Francesca Woodman took her own life in 1981, at the age of 22. So young!
This link will provide you with more in-depth information about Francesca's life and work.

Columns and Clothing
An interesting concept.

The Greeks and Romans produced a connection in building and personal dress. The folds of their clothing fell like plumb-lines, as did the clean straight columns they constructed up from the ground. Their clothing had a sense of order, like their villas and temples.

Column: An upright pillar, typical cylindrical, supporting an arch, entablature or other structure, or standing alone as a monument.
From pillar to post to pole to support to vertical to baluster.

The classical column orders of Architecture found in ancient Greece are Doric, Ionic and Corinthian.
The Romans introduced Tuscan and Composite.
  • Doric emphasized simplicity
  • Ionic introduced slender and graceful sophistication
  • Corinthian demonstrated ornate grandeur
  • Tuscan refined simplicity
  • Composite blended Ionic & Corinthian components

This video will enable you to learn more, if you are so inclined.

A well known London landmark is a column of the Corinthian order, built from Dartmoor granite, designed by William Railton and constructed between 1840 - 1843.
The actual statue of Nelson was carved from Craigleith sandstone, by the sculptor, Edward Hodges Baily.

Column can also refer to a female body shape,
and, a dress silhouette. 
It is a simple and straight style of dress that hangs down from the shoulders with little or no waist definition. It falls straight to the hemline, which is generally past the knee, creating the column-like silhouette. Its simplicity is its beauty and vis versa.


A lovely column cape dress, designed by Maria Moscone. I like the way the cape is sewn into the back hem and sweeps up round onto the front neckline, plus its' being lined in green. I also love it being worn with loafers! 
Makes a very cool evening ensemble.

A CdG white column dress



Hey, it rings bells with this column dress I made years ago.
Love this CdG column dress.

And, the column dresses from the CdG S/S 1998 'Clustering Beauty' are quite divine.



The most wonderful pleating work. I wouldn't want to sit down, if I was wearing one.






They have an off-white cotton lawn base, with nine layers of identical fabric pleated and sewn together as bodice and skirt. 

This a lovely photograph of one of the above dresses, all tied up in beautiful bows, a special way to present it, don't you think.

Another interesting column dress from CdG

And this one from the Fall 2015/16 'Ceremony of Separation' collection


In Chanel's 2017/18 S/S, 'The Modernity of Antiquity' collection, Lagerfeld looked to classical Greece for inspiration. The Grand Palais of Paris was transformed into a set of ancient ruins and Doric columns.
 
A couple of Grecian style column dresses,

and, even column heel shoes, which look Ionic to me.


I was interested to read this particular piece about the collection, "Dresses embroidered with spirals, a symbol of movement, life and energy..."
That comment took me back to another cool piece from the CdG 'Clustering Beauty' collection,
and I am thinking it is cut from a spiral pattern.

Thought I would give it a go. 
Tested it out first.
Want it a bigger scale.
Here's the pattern.

Pinned it onto calico.

Cut it out and create this, a cascading calico shawl..
over a black column dress.

This is the Palladium Dress designed by Gionfranco Ferre, for a 1992 Spring/Summer Christian Dior collection. It takes its name from Andrea Palladio, an Italian late Renaissance architect of the Venetian School. He often used columns to emphasis the plane of a wall, making them a decorative relief.

In 2013, Rei Kawakubo established Dover Street Market New York, on the corner of Lexington Avenue and East 30th Street. One aspect of the structural concept was described "overtly architectural gesture is the imposition of columns-non-load-bearing-that go from the ground floor to the sixth floor. It's like they are there as visual punctuation marks, which serve as surfaces for artwork".

Like artwork by Magda Sayeg, founder of "Knitta Please", and one of the prime instigators of yarn bombing.




It is interesting to read this interview, where Magda Sayeg talks about her collaboration with Comme des Garcons and what she learnt from it.

"You did the column at Dover Street Market here in New York, right?

 Yes.

I love that column. It’s amazing.

She’s incredible and I learned a lot and I’m not afraid to tell you that my work is better because of that experience with her. That whole experience was four years of art school for me. That’s the only way I can really truly describe it because of course it didn’t go seamless. There were things that, at first, I didn’t know I was supposed to cover these certain corners properly and there was a little bit of back and forth like, “no, this isn’t exactly it.” This is what I’ll tell you and why I love working with people like her: they hired me because they liked my work but when I found out that she hired me, I wanted to be more than my work. I wanted to do things outrageously. I wanted to just try harder. And at one point they were like, “we hired you because of your work. Why are you trying to do something different from your work,” and I just wanted to sit there and cry because it was so true. I was like, “you’re right, I don’t know why I’m trying to do something different. I guess I’m just trying to impress you and it’s not working.”

One last caryatid, Blenheim Palace.
Their  'Icons of British Fashion' exhibition, 23  March - 30 June, 2024, features top notch British designers and labels, with each fashion house taking over one of the rooms. It is described as a celebration of fashion from the past through to the present. This link will give you some idea.
An interesting column reference, for the lover of film. 
This link is an interview with filmmaker Rebecca Miller, daughter of playwright, Arthur Miller and photographer, Inge Morath. Among a number of other things, Miller talks about Frances McDormand, in the film 'Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri'..."where she's so still and has no extra Corinthian manifestations, you know, like on a column, 
where you see all the little...ornaments...extra elements...whereas she's just simple, just a simple column...of feeling and attention, and I thought that was really interesting..."

https://www.criterion.com/current/posts/5515-adventures-in-moviegoing-with-rebecca-miller

Columns to columnists.

A columnist is someone who writes a regular article for a newspaper or magazine. These regular articles on a specific subject or theme, often express the columnist's personal views or perspectives. 

A journalist reports facts and events, whereas a columnist aims to persuade, entertain, or inform their readers with their opinions, anecdotes, or analysis.

I am watching 'Feud: Capote vs. The Swans', the 2022 2nd season of the American drama television series. Talking about it with a friend, reminded me of the 2017 1st season, 'Bette & Joan', the rivalry between Hollywood actresses, Joan Crawford and Bette Davis. 
Actress Judy Davis, played gossip columnist, Hedda Hopper, she of amazing hats, cutting comments and right wing conservatism.

Interested to know more about what a gossip columnist is capable of...

What about NZ's very own, who came out of the 1980s Metro magazine.
Felicity Ferret!
Here's a wee blast from the 80s past. 'Midweek with Holmes' on the Ferret.

And, a 2017 Stuff article, 'The death of gossip in NZ'


Advice Columnists, are you into them? 
Read this article and see what you think.

Yeah, forget the Agony Aunt columnist, go for the Ecstasy Aunt columnist instead, Time Out London, May, 2004.


My experience with columnists started with Rosemary McLeod. I remember the column she wrote for the 'Eve' magazine, which was published between 1966 -75.

Rosemary McLeod contributed cool illustrations and comments regarding the NZ fashion scene. I believe it may have been the very beginnings of my journey to becoming the "21st Century Needlewoman" that I have become. 
I have no record of her work from that era, but here is an interesting column she wrote relating to Simone Biles exit from the 2021 Olympics.

My other columnist is Diana Wichtel and her Listener column. I enjoyed her way with words, when she was reflecting on various television programmes, like the final Breaking Bad episode - Breaking mad - Breaking sad - Breaking dad.

And, columnist Steve Braunias, in this link, an initial connection to Rosemary McLeod, and just such an interesting article to read, relating to NZ's literary past. 
https://newsroom.co.nz/2022/06/05/oh-dear-again/

My last column.
A column of old suitcases, snapped by a friend, who was browsing in a Waihi second hand store. 
I love it.

Sltsltbsigning off.

Can't resist this for a Post Script.
This 1946 edition reflects a wonderfully artistic approach to the book's subject matter.