This is the poster for a 2012/13 exhibition, 'Beyond Dress Codes', which was held at the Byron Museum, Lefkosia, Cyprus.
The theme was, 'Beyond Dress Codes: From Traditional Costume to Contemporary Fashion'.
Cool poster. I like this sort of juxtaposition, and the concept of traditional costume to contemporary clothing also appeals. My Year 11 class work a similar project for their NCEA, and I always hope it gives each student a more confident idea of who they are, and where they came from.
For the CdG Spring 2002 collection, Rei Kawakubo presented 'Ethnic Couture'
Laird Borrelli-Persson described the collection as having an air of childlike innocence, what with bows, ruffs and broderie anglaise.
A dirndl skirt and a dirndl blouse, known as a dirndl dress, consists of a full tight bodice, a blouse with a low neckline, short, 3/4 or long sleeves and a full skirt. This style developed as the traditional clothing of Austrian/ Bavarian female peasants between the 16th and 18th centuries. Apparently the name for the dress is derived from 'dirndl', which means young woman or girl. Today it's considered the traditional female dress in German-speaking parts of the Alps. Each different region has its own particular design.
The knots on the apron...
Observe each status in this video.
Here's a cool 2018 fashion shoot from German Vogue, with the model wearing various dirndl dresses. Each time her apron is tied on the right.
Over the years, decades actually, I have created a number of dirndl skirts.
Here's a cool 2018 fashion shoot from German Vogue, with the model wearing various dirndl dresses. Each time her apron is tied on the right.
Interested in contemporary dirndl blouses? This is for you.
And of course, this image from World of Interiors....in earlier days, when Jessica Hayns styled fab creations connecting with the various fabrics being promoted.
If you are into the construction of your own dirndles, my wonderful 'Simple Clothes And How To Make Them' by Kerstin Lokrantz is always a good start.
This one is described as "flared bias dirndl skirt". It has a CF seam and a CB seam. Being on the bias, it takes more fabric, but the bias always creates a nice "fall".
This one is described as "dirndl skirt". The CF is set on the straight grain fold.
No straight skirt block, then go this way (Thank you, Winifred A.) This is probably the way they did it in the original days.
As noted, broderie anglaise featured in the CdG S/S 2002 'Ethnic Couture' collection.
Here is a rather cool broderie anglaise bodice garment from the collection. It can be drawn up around the face, creating an interesting hood-like feature.
Broderie Anglaise is a needlework technique, incorporating embroidery, cutwork and needle lace. It is a very skilled form of needlework, and if you look at this video, you will see how intense it is....just look at the stitches, the making of the openings, don't necessarily listen to it, just observe the stitch work, and appreciate what is involved in creating it.
A wee intro to its history, it is believed to have originated in the Czech Republic,
I put this together, as a homage to broderie anglaise and the "childlike innocence" of the CdG SS 2002 collection.
Broderie anglaise is a strong feature in my "Wedgewood Blue Collection".
It reminded me of the sltsltb shirt I constructed. The sleeves are a major feature of this shirt, as well as the back-to-front concept.
The traditional costumes that are to be found throughout Europe, are a wonderful study. A geographical area's identity is expressed through its clothing.
This will give you some insight.
Read about the woman who constructed the wonderful knitwear for the film. What an inspiration!
and you can see how a cuff would contain the draping that such a shape creates.
Tao Kurihara's take of the folklore dirndl skirts and embroidered peasant blouses is very Comme des Garcons.
Some good information about the Chokha is found in this site.
Her cross-stitch work is simply fantastic! She is a true Craftivist.
https://www.mappr.co/thematic-maps/traditional-clothes-by-european-countries/
I do like the wonderful Irish Aran sweater seen in the above.
Immediately I thought of the fabulous sweater Colin Farrell wore in 'The Banshees of Inisherin'.
There's a wee bit of Colin Farrell's sweater in this top I constructed. It's in the collar and the texture.
Traditional female costume throughout the Russian empire is also fascinating.
The puffy sleeves with the cuffs on the sarafan dress, mentioned in the site, could look good on that pink shirt I constructed. This is the actual shape of the sleeve pattern,
Reading about the Russian 'kokoshnik', a married women's headwear, takes me back to my wardrobe work for 'Fiddler on the Roof'. It was a great project to work on. The flat caps, dirndl skirts, aprons, waistcoats, shawls, an earthy palette, plus the cossack shirts and the Jewish tallits, I think I did an okay job, for an amateur.
The story is set in the Pale of Settlement in Imperial Russia, around about 1905. This area encompassed parts of Ukraine, Lithuania and Moldova, where in 1791, Catherine the Great allowed Jewish people
to live. The English term 'Pale' is derived from the Latin word 'palus', a stake, extended to mean the area enclosed by a fence or boundary. The end of the enforcement coincided with the beginning of WW1, as large numbers of Jewish people fled into the Russian interior to escape the Germans, and finally in 1917, with the Revolution bringing about the demise of Imperial Russia.
I remember creating a kokoshnik for one of the spirits of the past.
Want to make your own Fiddler shirt? Once again, 'Simple Clothes and How To Make Them', will help you out.
For the Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2005 Couture collection, he looked to Eastern European folkloric costume for his inspiration. Apparently vodka shots and caviar were passed around, and Kateryna Yushchenko, a former first Lady of Ukraine, received a front row seat.
You can see that ornate embroidery from the Ukrainian vyshyvanka reflected in the long green dress. And, of course the couture peasant blouses and the glorious ushankas!
For their respective Fall 2009 collections, John Galliano and Tao Kurihara Comme des Garcons, also cited Eastern European inspiration.
In Galliano's you can see his intense research of folk costume in the hats, headscarves, embroidered hems of the dirndl skirts, and the sleeves.
This is an image from a Comme des Garcons photo shoot carried out in 1989 Soviet Georgia. The woman is wearing a chokha over the CdG trousers.
The chokha is one of the most distinctive items of clothing in Georgia. What makes it so, is the storage space for rifle ammunition sewn into the breast of the coat.
For his Fall 2017 collection, designer David Koma, who is of Georgian descent, reflected the chokha this way
If interested in the CdG shoot in Soviet Georgia, look to this site. British photographer, Brian Griffen took the photos, and if you scroll down, there's a video of the shoot in action. It's interesting to see RK directing some of the work.
Ukraine.
This is a photograph taken by the ethnographic photographer, Anna Senik.
In the vimeo.com link you can view Selvedge's 2022 Christmas message. 'One of hope, hope for peace.' Lovely images of Anna Senik's work are posted, especially the beautiful black lambs.
The previous year, Selvedge commissioned Belarusian artist, Refina Bazlova to create their Christmas message.
Do view this site, the commissioned video is so cool.
And to connect the Belarusian traditional costume and craftivism with Refina, check this site
If you scroll down on this site you will get a free cross-stitch pattern for the male figure on the left side of Zelensky's vyshyvanka.
I am thinking I will sew my effort on to my 'A Little Sewing Circle' jacket.
https://sites.google.com/site/wwwsewroundcom/
Just finishing off with this image of fabrics and sample model reflecting the wonderful work that is found in the craft of Western and Eastern Europe.
sltsltbsigning off
P.S.
My tribute to the news that came through this week.
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| Mary Quant, 1930 - 2023. R.I.P. |
