For Autumn/Winter 2008 Rei Kawakubo delivered a collection described as "funny sideways take on trashy fifties net petticoat dance dresses.." Kawakubo said, "There's value in bad taste, too. This is CdG bad taste."
I like the lips and hearts motifs.
The hearts demonstrate some cool fabric manipulation. I was inspired to try a similar effect on a t-shirt. Put shirring elastic onto the bobbin and away you go stitching with ribbon creating the gathered shape.
Lips, hearts,red...it's got to be a 'love and kisses' theme!
According to Greek philosophy, there are 7 types of love:
- Eros - Romantic, Passionate Love
- Philia - Affectionate, Friendly Love
- Storge - Unconditional Familial Love
- Agape - Selfless, Universal Love
- Ludus - Playful, Flirtation Love
- Pragma - Committed, Long-Lasting Love
- Philautia - Self Love
Eros, 
is the Greek god of love and desire. A perfect looking God who could influence the romantic feelings of both mortals and immortals with strikes of his arrows. Some of these arrows were golden to spark desire, while others were leaden to spark revulsion. Eros' mission was to direct the primordial force of love and carry it to mortals.
Cupid, 
is the Roman adaptation, said to be the son of Venus (Goddess of Love) and Mars (God of War). Cupid was born in Cyprus and had to be immediately hidden from Jupiter, who wanted to kill him, as he thought he would be a danger to the world. Cupid ended up being fed and raised by wild beasts in the forest, where he made his bow out of a cypress, and became a very good archer.
Psyche was believed to be Eros/Cupid's true love.
This video may help explain it.
Marble statue after a 2nd century B.C. Greek original.
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| Psyche Discovering the Sleeping Cupid, by unknown artist, 18th century. |
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| Psyche Enamoured of Cupid, by John Wood (1801 - 1870). |
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| Cupid and Psyche, Edvard Munch, 1907. |
Cupid, the little winged boy who carries a bow and arrows with heart-shaped tips on Valentine's Day.
Valentine's Day started to become popular in the 18th century. In the 19th century the Victorians popularized the festivity by adding a romantic element, which included Cupid
This link gives a bit of that history. https://time.com/5516579/history-cupid-valentines-day/
Examples of Victorian Valentine cards with cute wee Cupids and hearts.
Now, what about these ones? Not exactly Victorian. (I did send this image as a postcard to someone once.)
The cupid cherubs are taken from Raphael's 1512, The Sistine Madonna
I have been reading Elizabeth Gaskell's 'Cranford', and there is a section in which the narrator, Mary Smith is discussing "little Cupids"
Could these be what she may have experienced? https://bakingwithlemon.com/old-fashioned-macarons/
Before I leave winged ones, I think of a favourite film of mine, Wim Wenders 'Wings of Desire'.
A 1987 romantic fantasy about invisible immortal angels in Berlin, who listen to the thoughts of its human inhabitants. One angel, Damiel, falls in love with a lonely trapeze artist, so he chooses to become mortal, as this way he can experience human sensory pleasures ultimately discovering love with the trapeze artist.
Check out the trailer.
The closing titles state:
"Dedicated to all the former angels, but especially to Yasujiro, François
and Andrej" (all references to Wenders' fellow filmmakers Yasujirō Ozu, François
Truffaut, and Andrei Tarkovsky).[42] These directors had all died before the release of the
film, with Kolker and Beickene arguing they were an influence on Wenders: Ozu
had taught Wenders order; Truffaut the observation of people, especially youth;[43] and Tarkovsky, a less clear influence on Wenders,
consideration of morality and beauty.[44] Identifying directors as angels could tie in with the
film characters' function to record.
Now, what else denotes Valentine's Day?
Red roses!
Red expresses a range of symbolic meanings - life, health, vigor, war, courage, anger, love and religious fervor. Passion being a common thread.
In moments of rage, lust or embarrassment, bright red oxygenated blood rushes to the skin's surface as a response to your "fight or flight" sympathetic nervous system.
"Roses and blood" described Comme des Garcons Spring/Summer 2015 collection. "The familiar motif of the rose or rosette was there from the first look, cascading down in long flowing red ribbons of fabric" (Sarah Mower)
Pretty much the collection was all red, rose red, poppy red and "incarnadine scarlet". (F'ing glorious!)
As I have mentioned often enough, Rei Kawakubo is very good at delivering her collection pieces in a more "wearable" way.
The wonderful hood which featured in the collection,
inspired me to create the second piece for my 'In The Hood' project.
Check what I was about with the project via this link:
A few years ago I did a floral theme blog and 'War of the Roses' is discussed. Here's a link if at all interested, and scroll down.
I am just in awe of how easily its maker handles the massive volume of fabric to create what she does. Amazing skill, technique and experience is displayed.
Polish artist Filip Pagowski designed the cool logo, and he said, "The
heart image happened simultaneously with, but independently of the creation of
the PLAY line. It’s as if [Rei Kawakubo and I] were affected subliminally by
each other’s work," explained Pagowski. "I remember working on
something... not connected to anything. I got this idea of a red heart with a
set of eyes. I drew it instantaneously and the first draft was it. I submitted
it for another CdG project, for which it never made it, but eventually it
resurfaced; making bigger waves as a logo for the PLAY line."
I've mentioned my one often enough.
This is the link to the group who came up with the idea. https://www.assembil.com/fashion-baubles-2017/
The width is 35.5cm and it has a pleated texture, which made me think of Issey Miyake, so I made this top. I gave it an underlayer for extra stability and backing to allow the stitching of the lower strip.
Alexander McQueen was often described as a fashion rosariarn. Apparently he was well-versed in the historical and mythic meanings of roses.
His Saraband Spring 2007 collection was considered one of his most floriate.
In 2019 an experiential space was positioned on the top floor of the Alexander McQueen flagship store. The concept was about giving an open access to the work in progress, stories, teamwork and materials that go into Alexander McQueen collections.
Check it out in this link: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/en-us/27oldbondstreet-2-roses
and do scroll down to view the video of the making of this amazing garment.
New York's Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology recently held an interesting exhibition 'Ravishing:The Rose in Fashion'
This video allows you an overview of what the exhibition involved.
And this is an interesting essay by Amy de la Haye, who co-curated the exhibition.
I always love the various lectures, seminars and workshops that go with exhibitions. Seeing as much of this exhibition occurred during Covid-19 time, videos are available. Lots of great information on roses is imparted by the speakers...Might not be everyone's cuppa, but I enjoyed them.
The first one is Amy de la Haye
The second one is Professor of Fashion Thinking, Jonathon Faiers
The third one is Colleen Hill (co-curator of Ravishing:The Rose in Fashion) and Elizabeth Way, if wanting to know more about the exhibition.
The fourth one is Nick Knight in conversation with Amy de la Haye
And, it is just interesting to read about the various rose colour meanings
https://www.ftd.com/blog/give/rose-color-meanings
In Irish culture the black rose is a symbol of resistance against British rule. The resistance song 'Roisin Dubh' accompanied the CdG collection.
Amy de la Haye's essay refers to "A defiant anti-Nazi group named themselves The White Rose, tragically the young intellectual members were murdered by their oppressors."
Watch this film to learn the story of Sophie Scholl, a helluva brave articulate young woman resisting brutal brutish Nazi Germany.
The CdG AW 2015 collection had wonderful big rosettes growing out of the garments
Cutting Class showed them in more detail https://www.thecuttingclass.com/comme-des-garcons-shows-how-ribbon-roses-are-done/
so I made a t-shirt inspired by the idea
For the CdG Fall 2022 'Black Rose' collection, Rei Kawakubo said "For me, the dark beauty of the Black Rose symbolises courage, resistance and freedom."
My own take on Black Rose.
I think hearing it played on the tin whistle is the way to go.
The Heart icon
In 2002 Comme des Garcons PLAY was launched.
T-shirts are a big part of CdG PLAY
I always liked this delightful illustration work reflection the indomitable Diana Vreeland,
and, of course I had to reinterpret it my way.
Last Christmas I made my own tree decorations, reflective of CdG PLAY
This is the link to the group who came up with the idea. https://www.assembil.com/fashion-baubles-2017/
A lovely friend gave me this beautiful strip of fabric for my birthday.
Many hearts feature in this "Love-Inspired Looks That Stole Our Hearts"
And, what about Rihanna stepping out in a Heidi Slimane heart-shaped cape.
Looking at it in a different way...(one of the outfits in the Valentines Day inspirations made me think of this)
One last image before moving on from the Heart. I have this on my whiteboard at school
Kawakubo has had some interesting collection runway makeup effects relating to Lips
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| CdG Fall 2004 |
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| CdG Fall 2009 'Wonderland' |
She is also fond of the iconic Rolling Stones logo.
Seen to interesting effect in this Comme des Garcons Homme jacket
Consequently I couldn't resist this book...
I believe they are called 'lipographs'. The book was inspired by David Bowie, who was once presented with a box of cosmetics by Charles of the Ritz and, to thank them, he sent in return a print of his lips, made with lipstick on a card. Eventually an idea was formed - an auction of liposgraphs to raise money for charity. Famous personalities were asked to put painted lips to paper, and Sotheby's auctioned them off. Many of the liposgraphs are reproduced in this book, with Kiri Te Kanawa being one of them.
Background information on the creation of that long enduring logo https://1000logos.net/rolling-stones-logo/
Years ago, when I was sending out letters I often signed them with my lipstick lips, a bit like on this postcard. (Brown tended to be my lipstick shade)
This is Bowie's
One of Scarfe's cartoons!
Segue to my 2nd piece in 'Redress The Past'
It is inspired by the Victorian undergarment known as drawers. Drawers were open through the crotch area, allowing for easier squatting for toileting, when wearing the big skirts of that day.
What I have created is a pair, which have an invisible zip. The concept is, that zipped up means No! Back off! Who do you think you are! I do not consent! I am not a chattel!
I like this criteria for LOVE, which I leave with you
- You feel safe with them
- They listen
- They acknowledge your differences instead of trying to change you
- You can communicate easily
- They encourage you to do your own thing
- You trust each other
- They make an effort
- You know you can collaborate or compromise
- They help you get your needs met
- They respect you
- You see it every day
- They want the best for you
Before signing off you might appreciate this: 'Why The Feminist In Me Loves Comme des Garcons' https://the-rosenrot.com/feminism-comme-des-garcons/
SLTSLTBsigning off with XOXOs
P.S. Hugs & kisses interpretation of XOXO
The 'X' has a Christian connection. Since the Medieval era the letter 'X' has been used in reference to Christ's cross. It also became important for document and letter signing, bearing in mind a large number of the population were illiterate until late 19th century. It also became common practice to kiss the 'X' as a sign of deep sincerity.
Apparently the Oxford English Dictionary asserts the first recorded use of 'X' meaning kisses, dating back to 1763 in a letter written by a priest. However, it is possible it may have referred to 'blessings'. The use of 'X' to signify 'blessings' does appear in the 1719 novel Robinson Crusoe.
'X' started to become associated with kisses by the mid 19th century.
The most common theory regard the 'O' is it being associated with the Jewish people. The first groups of Jewish immigrants arriving in North America signed documentation with 'O' as opposed the Christian X.
Eventually the two become connected with affection XOXO "Hugs and Kisses"
