Add a Touch of Subtraction.
"Rei Kawakubo had the art of subtracting and reducing a garment to its barest essentials, re-constructing it with only the bare bones visible and then contrasting it with another item of clothing, which at first look would appear to have no relevant relationship at all."
It's a mathematical theme to start off 2022. Mathematics can be applied to every aspect of life, definitely including the world of clothing/fashion design.
Where will it take me?
Let's start with the CDG S/S 2009 collection 'Tomorrow's Black'
(Geometry, the branch of mathematics concerned with properties and relations of points, lines, surfaces, and solids.) 
Tessellation is what the above CDG skirts are about.
Hey, I've got some vinyl leftovers from previous projects...let's see what I can do!
When you cover a surface with a pattern of flat shapes, which have no overlaps or gaps, it is called tessellation.
Maybe time to view a quick and easy reminder about tessellation.
The master of tessellation is M.C. Escher.
Maurits Cornelis Escher (1898 - 1972),
the mathematically inspired graphic artist, who hated school, apart from his art classes. I've known a number of school students who could relate to that sentiment, but it is interesting that Escher was not inspired by mathematics. Maybe the teaching of it, in his day, just didn't do it for him.
This video helps to explains how fantastically Escher connects with mathematics.
Check out the M.C.Escher website, lots of interesting bits and pieces to explore, particularly the one with his son's recollections of Dad, tender and special memories.https://mcescher.com/
And, would you like to make your own tessellation? If so, watch this..
One of my favourite Escher works is 'Metamorphosis II'.
The concept of this piece is to morph one image into a tessellated pattern and then slowly alter that pattern eventually to become a new image.
A close up of the honeycomb section.
Honeycomb, the mass of hexagonal prismatic wax cells built by honey bees in their nests to contain their larvae and stores of honey and pollen.
The above CDG skirts are honeycomb pattern.
Honeycomb was the word CDG Junya Watanabe used to relate to his F/W 2015 collection. He was exploring the concept of glorious dimensionality through clothing. Models even had algebraic equation markings scribbled on parts of their bodies.
The more structured work, like the ones below, required different folding techniques, including a set that incorporated diamond-shaped patterns formed with the golden section, a mathematical sequence commonly found in nature.
My most favourite image relating to this collection, is one from the fabulous Vogue Italia
I have this framed and hanging on my bedroom wall. I love the whole concept, the beautiful white horses, the 2 models wearing only the 'honeycomb ruffs' and high heels, plus the ivy and is that a tree hut? I like the idea that it is a tree hut.
And, I'll also slip in this 'honeycomb' scarf/collar.
I'll just slip this video in here, as it might help to explain the golden section/golden ratio, frequently observed in nature.
Honeycomb had featured in an earlier Watanabe collection, his wonderful F/W 2000 'Techno Couture'. At the time the collection was referred to as the most ethereal he had created. The "honeycomb ruffs" as Laird Borrelli-Persson described them were exquisite. Apparently they could be folded and stored in an envelope! For real?! And, I believe they were hand sewn...(22 years later, I'd still be happy to wear those shoes!)
Just returning to some cool tessellations from Watanabe's S/S 2015 collection.
My inspired outfit from CdG's 'Tomorrow's Black' tessellated skirts. I remembered I also had some left over red vinyl. It will make a connection further down.
Take this link to view the video 'Collecting Comme: Tomorrow's Black'. You get to see a fabulous geometric top that featured in the collection. Fascinating how such a simple shape is stitched to create the most wonderful upper garment. (This video relates to the exhibition 'Collecting Comme' held at The NGV, Melbourne's marvellous Art & Design Gallery, which I had planned to go to, then Covid-19 made the headline and the rest is history!)
https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/collecting-comme/watch/
('Berlin District' woman's garment)
Now, some connecting with words from my theme's title.
Starting with the late 90s Issey Miyake Design Studio and Dai Fujiwara, one of the many talented people to emerge from that environment.
Together, Fujiwara and Issey Miyake took on a rethinking of the manufacturing process required to make clothes, from the raw material development through to the machinery required, plus the fitting of the wearer. The primary concept being the wearer can determine the end product.
A-POC (A Piece of Cloth) is the result.
The wearer takes away what she doesn't want.
Can you see that in this image?
Starting with this...
and subtracting as you go,
you will...
end up...
with...
this.
Last year Issey Miyake Design Studio extended its A-POC concept, to be one more aware and encouraging of a sustainability ethic.
Read more about it via this link.
https://design-anthology.com/story/design-style-issey-miyaki-a-poc-able-launch(Topology is the mathematical study of the properties that are preserved through the deformations, twisting and stretching of objects.)
This video of William Thurston might help to explain some of it. Of all his videos I have researched, this one is the most accessible for me!
Apparently, Fujiwara wrote to Thurston stating that they were both trying to understand the best 3-dimensional forms of 2-dimensional surfaces, and their combined inspirations helped to create a collection of beautifully draped and asymmetrical forms.
He delivered them in scarves, which were beautifully worn on the models.
This work with the scarves has inspired me.
A couple of years ago, a lovely friend sent me some fabric, nice brick brown colour, and of course I made something out of it, a relatively plain blouson top to go with a skirt in my wardrobe.
I didn't want to ditch the fabric that was left over. It was too much to throw away as waste, so I made it into a big infinity scarf to wear with the top.
Now, I have reconstructed it, using this Borromean ring as my guide.
This is a much more interesting scarf to wear..
Wear it normal scarf style, or do a wrap round the back thing, effective, either way.
Mobius strips are studies in topology.
I liked this image because it made me think flax.
Want to make one? Check this web site, plus it offers an Escher connection.
Mobius strips have provided cool inspiration for designers.
J. Meejin Yoon, architect, sculptor, whose work falls between the conceptual and the concrete developed a 'Mobius Dress' in 2005.
"Made of white felt, it takes the shape of a mobius strip, a loop made by flipping one end of a rectangular strip and then connecting it to the opposite end. By cutting while following the strip two times around, three connected loops are formed. When the cut edges of the dress are zipped together, the garment encloses the body in a stiff A-line shape. When unzipped, the dress unfolds and its intertwining loops cascade to the floor." (Skin & Bones. Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture Exhibition guidebook)
This is an image of J.Meejin Yoon cutting paper into a Mobius strip, which illustrates how her 'Mobius Dress' works.
And, Yeohlee Teng, New York based Malaysian designer, who also works with mobius strip inspiration. In many cases, these designs fulfil her advocacy for 'Zero Waste Fashion'. Teng has participated in many exhibits, and I like how she often includes the pattern alongside the garment, "as they provide insights into the thinking processes that led to the garment."
I think she could be referring to the middle gown, and I fully understand her sentiment re the waste reduction. I also like to read that Teng likes to work with the selvedge of fabric, e.g. having the CF of a coat created from the selvedge. Her comment, "You know, look, you use the selvedge you have less sewing. A coat with a selvedge - no facing, no interlining!"
Her upper right mobius garment incorporates the selvedge of the fabric.
Perhaps I can bring my 'twisted sister sweater' in here, as it has an element of that mobius strip aspect to it, not that I was actually thinking about that as I constructed it.
Sheets found this scarf to be an easy example of Vionnet's work to experiment with and presented the following information
Celeste Sheets, who wrote articles for Threads magazine, was delighted to discover a Vionnet Mobius Scarf in Betty Kirke's fabulous book 'Madeleine Vionnet'.
I tried it out...
Julian Roberts, an English fashion designer, is the inventor of a pattern cutting technique he termed 'Subtraction Cutting'. Using this technique, the patterns are not cut to represent the outward shape. It is a more organic approach to the pattern making method. Many times the form of the fabric dictates the design. Instead of confining the fabric to the shape of pre-determined patterns, sections are taken away/ subtracted, so the garment can be created by threading the fabric or body through openings in different ways.
This approach encourages the 'pattern maker' to cut fast, without using complex numerical mathematics. (Julian Roberts own words.)
and, want to know a lot more, even download info re Robert's technique, this link will assist
This 1998 Comme des Garcons garment has possibly been created using, what Robert's termed the 'Tunnel Subtraction Cutting' technique. The basis of this technique is understanding how a body can pass through the surface of a pattern many times.
I have always liked this super easy plan for a nice wee summer dress. It's got a hint of the above garment.
Many CDG collection garments have sections taken away, like,
CDG S/S 2012 "White Drama"
and, A/W 2015 "The Ceremony of Separation"
I was working on a project and its beginning stage made me think of the above garment. I had cut a large rectangle shape, then took smaller rectangles away.
Here is a Comme des Garcons black vinyl skirt with circles taken away.
My own red vinyl top with circles taken away. It's a bit of fun to wear.
Junya Watanabe worked with whole circles in this ensemble
Is a circle the purest shape in Geometry?
Due to the symmetry of a circle, it is considered as the perfect shape. And they are everywhere, as attested by Manuel Lima's 'The Book of Circles, Visualizing Spheres of Knowledge'.
Circle skirts are pretty cool. Making a pattern for one involves working with a mathematical formula. If any of my Yr.9 students have designed one for their class project, they will go through this procedure to create their pattern. Measure the waist circumference, then divide by 6.28, which gives you the radius to draw the circle which will relate to your waist measurement. Lots of mathematical fun in Fab.Tech.
This is my double circle skirt. Looks pretty ordinary in this form...
Now you see it is 2 circles stitched together, which creates an interesting skirt.
Take a look at designer Qing Li's lovely collection 'When Mathematic Meets Tailoring'. I like her Square Pants ensemble.
Now, I like her Square Pants ensemble due to it's 3 dimensional cut. This is where I was going with the garment I was working on I mentioned above.
It is a wearable 'Amsterdam building' garment, 'reflected in the water'...lots of maths went into the pattern work. Trust it's not too abstract.
Let's finish with a fantastic exhibition to visit.
'Fashion Axiom: Fashion's mathematical codes' This exhibition examines the varied influence mathematics has on fashion design beyond pattern-making, creating shapes to dress the body using geometry and mathematical principles. The link takes you through the exhibition layout, the design concept and the glorious garments on display.
If this Mathematical theme has really interested you, you might enjoy a lecture by Professor Etienne Ghys. He appreciates the mathematical skill of Issey Miyake.
If you viewed the above video and want to follow up Professor Zeeman's 'Mathematics Applied to Dressmaking', here's a link.
SLTSLTBsigning off from this mathematical approach, which has been very stimulating. Yay, go Maths!
A Yr.13 student of mine has just completed her 'Small Fashion Collection' project and she demonstrated great mathematical skill in her pattern cutting.
The collection was based on Shape/Form.
This is one of her designs
.PNG)
The finished trousers are just fabulous! Total top marks in my book!
