Animals.
They are a wonderful part of our world, and so worth caring for and loving.
As the nature writer Henry Beston wrote in 1928 "We need another and a wiser and perhaps a more mystical concept of animals. In a world older and more complete than ours they moved finished and complete, gifted with extensions of the senses we have lost or never attained, living by voices we shall never hear."
Sometimes I think I understand perfectly when my dear little Pusscat is gently meowing at me, but I am probably anthropomorphising, and she's not expressing how much she misses me at all!
Since humans evolved to stand on 2 legs, and began losing their own body hair, animals have had a very close association with their clothing. Wonderful furs and skins draped their bodies.
Neanderthals learned how to use the hides of animals they hunted to keep themselves from freezing to death.
Animals and the Fashion Industry.
Its glossary of fur offers very good information, but bear in mind this was 2002, things could have changed for where the various designers are at today concerning the use of fur in their collections.
From the necessity for survival to a display of wealth, prestige and status. At least these above dudes went out into the environment of the fur coated animal and took it on. I imagine the animal sometimes got away (one up for the animal), whereas today the conditions involved in both the farming and production of animal products for the fashion industry present many issues, both ethical and environmental.
This image is from a 2002 newspaper (The Independent) supplement that looked into the issues regarding the increased use of fur in the fashion industry. Animal rights activists had started to question the practices of the fashion scene in the late 1970s.
I think 'Astrakhan' could be the same as the 'Persian Lamb'. I do hope it has been stopped as a textile practice!
Just before leaving the fashion world as such...
This portrait work is based on 3 key areas:
Or, Guido taking readers on a tour of the Comme des Garcons Chelsea store. He received a special "hump cut" in homage to Rei Kawakubo for the event.
Contemporary artist William Wegman loves his Weimaraners. They are "perfect fashion models" for him. Wegman said "Their elegant slinky forms are covered with gray - and gray, everyone knows, goes with everything."
Fran Lebowitz wasn't that impressed with Wegman's murals in the New York subway.
She asked Martin Scorsese in the series 'Pretend It's A City', "Do you think this is essential to the lifeblood of NY, that we have these dogs in the subway station?" (2019) I think her issues was one of rate-payers money being used for it.
And you know what else they make me think of? Here she is!
developed into a garment...
for a project relating to Lone Wolf Terrorism
It was part of my project "In The Hood". Check this link for the whole thing. https://sites.google.com/d/1Pj7MrDvEvb1SD_yrfezc_T1IU7DoH4bj/p/16ESkX2r114gdB3N6oNs4QXAM88i-iMdu/edit
I am thinking of a jacket. I have never worked with leather before. I am inspired by this jacket.I won't know if I have enough fabric until I complete the pattern.
This statement doesn't hold back. "Animal abuse within the fashion industry comes in two parts: Torturing animals directly by objectifying them for their fur, their skin, or their hide, while the other part harms animals by polluting their habitat and disrupting their food chains. In both circumstances the processes involved in fashion production make it impossible for these animals to live wild and free."
A link to 'The Use of Animals inside the Fashion Industry' by Barbara Ferreira. It is an analysis of the research of 5 different authors concerning the use of animals in the fashion industry. The link is more a summary of the various sections of the publication, but still thought provoking reading.
https://management.iedbarcelona.org/portfolio/animals/
Watch Teddy's poignant video and prepare to shed a tear or two.
Her company, founded in 2001, does not use fur, feathers or leather. They are committed to keeping animal materials usage to the minimum, except for wool and silk.
Stella says,"I grew up on an organic farm, not eating animals, and that was crazy in that day and age. I'd sit at dinner parties, and people would get upset at even the thought that I was a vegetarian."
and look at CdG Homme Fall 2013, similar millinery
Autumn Winter 2019/20
and what I like about the CdG spring Summer 2016 collection 'Blue Witches', much of it was crafted in faux fur, from astrakhan to leopard. RK is happy to use "cheaper" fabrics for her creations, polyurethane instead of leather, faux fur, polyesters and nylons.
PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) is a strong force in bringing issues of animal abuse to the fore, with no holds barred, and often with the use of celebrities. This one was a classic
even Teddy is involved!
A great link to view powerful animal rights adverts
https://www.boredpanda.com/powerful-animal-ads/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic
Watch a good video, which gives you both sides of the issue.
One designer who comes out of this issue with a good record is Stella McCartney.
Impressive, I suspect such an attitude goes way back for Stella, way back to her childhood, her childhood in Kintyre.
Paul McCartney wrote Mull of Kintyre as a "love song" to their Scottish home.
Fab. video reflecting all that emotion.
Stella McCartney's Fall 2020 collection was very much an expression of her long-held passion for animals and the environment. Guests were handed baby trees, which they were encouraged to plant as it would offset the carbon dioxide produced by the show. Earrings, brooches and necklaces in the shape of animals, plus people in animal costumes were the reminder of the Stella McCartney love and respect for animals.
Check out the last section of this video of the collection, the animal costumes are fun
Comme des Garcons often work with animal design features and accessories.
CdG Fall 2007...
Comme des Garcons Shirt will present great animal concepts
Spring Summer 2019
cool applique patchwork bear-like animals, or maybe wolves?
American fashion designer Thom Browne presents some interesting collections with animal themes. His AW 2014 one had a cool backdrop, which was full of "critters". A bear, ducks, fish, rabbits, squirrels, even an eagle, and they were all stitched from classic menswear fabrics. The marvellous milliner Stephen Jones, created the stunning animal headwear. Apparently Browne said, "The animals prevail."
The video of the show is fabulous.
It is very interesting watching and listening to Browne discuss his design process for the collection in this video. I think Thom Browne likes the uniform look.
Browne's Fall 2020/21 was his reflection of 'Noah's Arc'. He said he had wanted "to tell a beautiful story of animals coming together and celebrating." Again, Stephen Jones put together the animal masks.
I really like Polly Dedman's illustration work 'Fashion Design: The Occupational Hazards' Animal behaviour expresses it well.
Mentioning animal headwear, I assisted with the wardrobe for our school production 'The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe'. My Year 7 class had been making gorgeous little animal hoods. When the director saw them, she said they must be in the show. They were so cute.
Animalia Fashion
In 2019 an exhibition revealing the encounter between Haute Couture and Nature, was held in Palazzo Pitti's Galleria del Costume e della Moda in Florence. This cool video of the exhibition will give you an experience of the wonders of the natural world and haute couture. Very stylish!
and this fabulous video relating to the Burberry Spring/Summer 2020 collection...
...it explores the "If you were an animal, what animal would you be?" theme, through both the clothes and the wearer. It's so cool.
What about something a little bit different, yet the same...
"Animals Should Definitely Not Wear Clothing'
A delightful book.
Now, Yago Partal may not agree.He creates these wonderful 'Zoo Portraits', obviously beautifully photoshopped.
1. Dissemination of information about nature and the animal kingdom.
2. Underlying values of protection and conservation.
3. Art. Through the sale of their art prints and other products, they help to support wildlife conservation projects.
Dogs really are something wonderful in humans lives.
I do hope that is the case. The portraits are beautiful, and such a lot of work must go into each one. There is a great connection with the animal's "character" and its ensemble.
Want to see more/know more, check out the Zoo Portraits website
Even some bigger dogs seem happy enough
I'm not sure what I feel about animals like dogs, actually being dressed in clothing. I know they can look very cute, when small, and look these ones are dressed in CdG Play.
New York pet couture designer, Anthony Rubio, created these CdG dog ensembles, relating to the Fall 2012 and Fall 2013 collections
Look at the fabulous relationship between this owner and his dog, so creative together, the creator and the patient accommodating model.
This series is known as 'Evolution Of A Bottle In Space'. (It's an Issey Miyake)
Have you come across 'Hanimals' before? Conceptual and quirky works of hand art by Mario Mariotti
Yesterday, I came across this delightful book. Carol Tai is into machine embroidering pet dogs. She provides great templates in the book and all the dogs are so charming. Check out the Hoop n Loop website.
Here's a little fabric carry bag...
of animal biscuits. They remind me of my younger days. I loved licking that icing off!
And you know what else they make me think of? Here she is!
In the 2017 Paul Smith/Rei Kawakubo interview...he asks, "Are you an animal lover? What is your favourite animal? Do you have any pets?', and her recorded answer is, "I like all animals, especially wolves." Nice one Rei.
Z00 Portraits of Artic Wolf and Gray Wolf
My work about Lone Wolf started with a minecraft image...
I used to have a cute wee wolf hanging on the wall. Came in one day and some little Pusscat had been at him!
Wolves are nocturnal animals, hunting for food at night and sleeping during the day.
'Nocturnal Animals', the 2016 "neo-noir psychological thriller" directed by Tom Ford, was in my opinion, so-so, but I definitely sat up during the scene when Jena Malone, who played museum curator Sage Ross, appeared on screen wearing this amazing outfit...
Apparently director, Tom Ford felt "it kinda takes someone from the art world to pull off a runway CdG piece and provide a bit of comic relief" Is that really what Tom Ford thinks of CdG. It's comic relief?! I thought it was a fabulous outfit, and Jena wore it so well.
There's a little something in it that reminds me of my black vinyl capelet, which has an element of animal to it, an armadillo maybe...
A friend gave me some black leather a while back. Beautiful soft black leather. It'd been in storage for a while.
In the interim, I am thinking about leather.
Are animals farmed for their leather or is it a by product of the meat industry?
This is a good article 'Don't hide from the truth', it provides good information to ponder.
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/aug/27/ethicalfashion.leather#:~:text=But%20is%20leather%20really%20a,Yes%20and%20no.&text=The%20profit%20depends%20on%20the,far
The 5,500 year old cowhide shoe found in Armenia in 2008.
and a link to a guy discussing a variety of leathers, and what each one has to offer.
It sounds a fascinating story. McKay challenged herself to represent animal communication in words. The title is inspired by a Margaret Atwood poem. According to McKay, Atwood's poem encapsulated on one page what she wanted to get into her novel..."the many ways we categorise animals, our dependence and use of them, and our ultimate disregard for their lives".
This is the closest I could ever get to dressing little Pusscat. Here she is reporting for duty on the bow of Eric's ex-boat, Woodinnit, dressed in her little breton top and sailor hat. No show without punch we always say!
The leather industry is almost as old as 'mankind' itself.
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Leather is made from the skin of any mammal, reptile, bird or fish through the tanning process. Tanning preserves the skin, otherwise it would putrefy quickly.
This is an informative video about all that is involved in the tanning process. In this case it is an Italian tanning company. Italy is renown for its superb leather goods.
The Tanning Industry can have serious environmental issues. Current NZ news, Tasman Tanning Company, which produces finished leather that used to be sold to overseas leather manufacturers (Covid-19 has changed that a bit), have been exposed as having a bad history of dumping contaminants
The link to know more, if you wish to.
https://www.rnz.co.nz/news/in-depth/437130/company-at-top-of-dumping-breach-list-takes-on-big-new-contractA couple of weeks ago I listened to Kim Hill interview Laura Jean McKay, who has written the award winning, 'The Animals in That Country'. (Victorian Prize for Literature)
The animals in that country
by Margaret Atwood
In that country the animals
have the faces of people:
the ceremonial
cats possessing the streets
the fox run
politely to earth, the huntsmen
standing around him, fixed
in their tapestry of manners
the bull, embroidered
with blood and given
an elegant death, trumpets, his name
stamped on him, heraldic brand
because
(when he rolled
on the sand, sword in his heart, the teeth
in his blue mouth were human)
he is really a man
even the wolves, holding resonant
conversations in their
forests thickened with legend.
In this country the animals
have the faces of
animals.
Their eyes
flash once in car headlights
and are gone.
Their deaths are not elegant.
They have the faces of
no-one.
I finished my jacket!
SLTSLTBsigning off.
P.S. A beautiful animated poem 'The Peace of Wild Things', by Wendell Berry.